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Forum > Patterns and Notions > Marfy Jacket 3053 and sizing issue ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Marfy Jacket 3053 and sizing issue
CSY
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Date: 8/4/13 10:03 PM

Any experienced Marfy sewist who can comment will be helpful. My big 4 pattern size is a 12. Standard alterations are FBA, let out waist and hip to a 14. I purchased my Marfy jacket pattern in a 44. (should fit a 36 bust, this is me and my dress form) Instructions state to buy pattern according to body measurement using the Marfy measurement chart. Marfy patterns have few markings on them.. This is not a problem as I know how to sew. But there is apparently no ease in this pattern. The paper pattern measures 36" at the bust level. My muslin has a very tight blouse fit. The neck is also not sitting properly. Shoulders seem very sloped but when I adjust for this the back neck seems to sit very high. Wondering if Marfy placed the wrong size pattern in my size 44 envelope. I emailed voguepatterns.com where I purchased. Anyone have any ideas on this. If anyone has this jacket pattern in a size 44 I would love to compare the flat pattern measurements. Marfy 3053

-- Edited on 8/4/13 10:13 PM --

HarrietHomeowner

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Date: 8/4/13 10:35 PM

I have no experience with these, but I noticed it says there are no seam allowances on the pattern. This could be the cause of some of your problems.

RynV

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Date: 8/5/13 1:23 AM

Check seam allowances and bear in mind that Marfy patterns don't seem to have as much ease as the Big 4, which is what makes them fit so nicely. They do give a more snug fit, but it shouldn't be as tight as you are describing.

Jane S
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In reply to CSY <<


Date: 8/5/13 10:47 AM

Since you do a FBA on a Big 4 pattern and add to the hip area, have you done this to the Marfy jacket? I think FBA probably always means FBA regardless of company....but only a muslin will let you know that. BTW, I love the pattern you selected, it's very much the same lines an an OOP Vogue jacket that I just had help getting fitted last month by Sarah Veblen. If you do those same alterations to the Marfy pattern as you do to the Big Four then you will still probably have a closer European fit.

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CSY
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Date: 8/5/13 11:14 AM

Follow up to my question and the various response. Yes Marfy does not include seam allowances. This is not a problem. I am one of those people who miss the Burda's without the seam allowances. My body measurements pretty much match the Marfy chart so I did not think I should have to add to get around my body. I purchased the Marfy in a full size larger than I would have one of the big 4.

I emailed Marfy patterns directly and did get a quick response. It was interesting! There is only 1 cm of ease at the bust! OK that explains the tight fit! Knowing that I likely would have ordered up another larger size. The measurement chart states that ease is added to the pattern. Really! 1 cm in a jacket is pretty skimpy even if you don't plan on wearing anything underneath it.

mmcp
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Date: 8/5/13 7:14 PM

This is very helpful, actually. I have hesitated to buy Marfy because their smallest size is a 42 and I'm a 38 in Burda, but maybe I should try them!

KathleenS
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In reply to mmcp <<


Date: 8/6/13 4:12 AM

mmcp, you should be fine with Marfy. The measurements for a 42 are closest to a Burda 38, and as people have mentioned Marfy don't have excessive ease.

But, CSY, it does sound like your pattern doesn't have enough ease. 1 cm on a jacket is ridiculous. The pattern I tried was true to size (with the right amount of ease, not too little, not too much).

CSY
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Date: 8/6/13 3:03 PM

Any Marfy pattern fans willing to measure their unaltered flat patterns at the bust level and report pattern size and pattern measurement? I am curious as to consistency in ease added to Marfy patterns. Not sure I would purchase another without this information.

Re Becca
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Date: 8/6/13 4:15 PM

I have several Marfy pattern ()
I am a 14 in Big 4, and I order a 46 in Marfy so it sounds like you are right on track. I didn't used to measure bust (didn't have any problems), but now I do. I will check a couple of them at home tonight (I will try, working overtime right now so it depends on clients' moods). I have been working on 2132 in a 46 which is also quite fitted so I will take a look at it and post as soon as I can.
I must say that is a really nice looking jacket, but it does look pretty fitted. Do you have sleeves on it to judge the shoulder/arm fit?
Their sleeves are too small for me (measuring 13-14" while I am a snug 15") so be sure to measure before you cut.

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Damn the muslin, full speed ahead!

CSY
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In reply to Re Becca <<


Date: 8/7/13 10:43 AM

Thanks Re Becca. 2132 does look very close fitting. It will be interesting to see what ease is added over the stated pattern bust measurement. Also wondering if these patterns have been drafted for the shoulder pad? I have to add 1/2' at the shoulder. I will check height of the sleeve cap. Haven't added the sleeves yet due to poor fit at the bust but the bottom of the armhole looks to be in the right place. Sleeve cap height should help me figure this out.

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