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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Seam allowances

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Seam allowances
Julia C
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Julia C  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/5/13 9:04 AM

I am working on the muslin for Burda 8218. The 5/8" seam allowances are driving me crazy since I have been tracing & adding my own to most patterns or using patterns with much smaller SAs (Jalie, Kwik Sew, StyleArc). I am planning to cut the real version today.
I am decreasing the facing to 1/4", sleeves to 3/8". I will probably leave the 5/8" on the side seams for insurance. My question is, do I make the neckline/ undercollar seam 1/4" or 3/8"?
BTW, this is a great pattern as long as you read the previous reviews & decrease the bust length on the markings to shorten that area. I am not sure if 3/4" shortening is enough in that area but will live with it for now as the back & shoulders look GREAT!!
PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
Ohio USA
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Date: 8/5/13 9:28 AM

I find it easier to make all the seam allowances the same and then trim down to the recommended width. Otherwise, it can become confusing as well as time consuming.

Have you, or anyone who may be reading this used one of these when adding a seam allowance as you cut? I have not, so cannot give it a thumbs up or thumbs down.




-- Edited on 8/5/13 9:35 AM --

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OLD CHINESE PROVERB: I HEAR & I FORGET; I SEE & I REMEMBER; I DO & I UNDERSTAND.

Brine
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Brine  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/5/13 3:35 PM

I think you can add whatever seam allowance width you are comfortable with, but by all means when you are tracing make a note of the s.a. width on the pattern next to each seam.

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Brine

Julia C
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Julia C  Friend of PR
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In reply to Brine

Date: 8/5/13 5:13 PM

OK, I'll try the 3/8" then as I can always decrease. I have already marked every seamline on the pattern for alterations.
GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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Date: 8/5/13 7:19 PM

I do the same as PattiAnnJ.

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"TOL machines = Too (much) Operator Learning"--poorpigling, January, 2016

sewdoggie22
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sewdoggie22  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/6/13 9:41 AM

If I'm not really sure how the fabric will fit or if there will be enough ease, I make a really big seam allowance and use a basting stitch for the first stitching.

Then, I adjust the seams to fit exactly on each section. When I have the fit, then I go back and either serge the seams or put in a 3.0 stitch. 3.0 is the industry standard for rtw.
Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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In reply to Julia C

Date: 8/6/13 10:50 AM

I view seam allowances as a guide. You can make them whatever you want. I can sew a 5/8" seam allowance without much effort as all patterns used to have that. Now many patterns use a 1/4" or something else. Some Burdas do not use the 5/8" seam. Make sure yours does and if you don't like it, use whatever size you want. I like the bigger seam allowance to work out fit-that way I can let something out if I need to do so. HTH
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