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Message Board > NEW to PatternReview? > new to pattern review ( Moderated by Lynnelle)

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new to pattern review
serger construction steps
luvtwosew
luvtwosew
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 8/7/13
Posts: 3
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Date: 8/7/13 12:32 PM

Hello, I'm new to Pattern Review and have a question on the construction steps for shorts on a serger. I recently got a Brother 1034D serger and love it so far. I've only used it for making a serger cover so far. I want to attempt to sew knit shorts with it using my own pattern and don't know where to begin. What seams do I sew first?, etc. Not sure if I should use a 3 or 4 thread stitch. I'm debating on whether I should use my sewing machine since I'm new to sewing with knits. However, I really want to take advantage of having a serger and I've heard that using one with knits is so much easier. Any help would be much appreciated.

sew2006
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sew2006
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In reply to luvtwosew <<


Date: 8/7/13 8:20 PM

First practise on the scraps of fabric, try out the stitch lenght setting and experiment with the differential feed. Most important DO NOT use pins to hold the fabric together..if you have the knives run over a pin they need replacing. Sergers are great machines you don't have to fear. For a basic pull on short: serge center fronts together, serge center backs together, open up and join front to back at side seams. Sew crotch seam together and then a hem/waistband elastic will need a sewing machine. For tricky things like pockets use your sewing machine to hold in place and serge to finish edge. A 4 thread seam is stronger for seams.

------
Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

SewLibra
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SewLibra  Friend of PR
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CA USA
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Date: 8/8/13 0:31 AM

I agree with sew2006 that you should practice on scraps for the differential feed, and also the serger stitch, and don't use pins. If there are loops sticking out from the edge of the fabric or the loops are rolling under the edge of the fabric, you will need to adjust your lower and/or upper looper tensions...just a little at a time. It usually does not take much adjustment on a 1034D. I assemble my shorts and pants in a different order.

1. Darts and zippers, if applicable.
2. Sew front to back at inner legs.
3. Sew crotch in continuous U-shape.
5. Add pockets if applicable
4. Sew side seams.
5. Hem

Everyone has their own way, but this is the fastest and most accurate for me.

I suggest you use your regular sewing machine first to ensure the fit, then serge the seams to finish. Once you serge and the seams are cut, there's not a lot you can do to adjust. It's so hard to take out serger stitching! Once you have used the pattern and know it fits for knits, then next time you could omit the sewing machine for certain seams if you feel confident. I have used a serger for many years and still like to use my sm for seams first, just to make sure.
Good luck and have fun! :-)

------
SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

luvtwosew
luvtwosew
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Member since 8/7/13
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In reply to sew2006 <<


Date: 8/8/13 0:56 AM

Thank you so much for the reply! I decided to plunge in and construct the shorts strictly with my serger. Sewing on a stretchy knit fabric with a serger is new to me. I made several mistakes, but decided to cut out the seams and start over. The shorts actually fit, however, not the prettiest. I certainly need alot of practice. I'm thinking maybe I will try to start my adventure with knits with my sewing machine first. This may be a dumb question, but when sewing with a stretch stitch, do you still backstitch at the beginning and end? I have a Singer Confidence 7469 sewing machine and when I use a stretch stitch, when I try to backstitch, it stays in one place instead of backstitching. Any suggestions?

luvtwosew
luvtwosew
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CA USA
Member since 8/7/13
Posts: 3
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In reply to SewLibra <<


Date: 8/8/13 0:58 AM

Thank you so much for the reply! Your information was very helpful! New to Pattern Review and I have learned so much already

sew2006
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sew2006
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In reply to luvtwosew <<


Date: 8/8/13 9:11 AM

Computerized machines tack most decorative/stretch stitches when reverse is pressed that's why it looks like it's sewing in the same spot. I use a regular stitch on the machine on 3 for lenght to help hold together pieces that will than be serged.

------
Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

SandiMacD
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SandiMacD  Friend of PR
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 2/8/09
Posts: 2209
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Date: 8/12/13 5:49 AM

Serging Directions for shorts:

I built my skills with toddler & kids pjs. If you have any in your family.
Cut them from knits and add 2" to the top waist. Dont cut a waist band.

Serge crotch front
Serge crotch back
Start at center crotch seam and serge to one end, then repeat to other end
Serge each outer leg seam

Cut 2" non rolling elastic about 2-3 inches shorter than waist measurements.
Pin evenly (4 pins total) to RIGHT side of material at waist.
Lock serger blade and stretch elastic to serge onto fabric removing pins as you get to them
Turn waist in 2" covering the elastic and use sewing machine ZZ stitch at bottom edge of elastic to secure.

Finished PJ or lounge pant! Less than 30 min

For kids under size 8 you can skip the step of cutting front and back pant legs. Instead, just lay the pattern pieces with outer seams together and around as one piece.

------
sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

SandiMacD
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SandiMacD  Friend of PR
Intermediate
FL USA
Member since 2/8/09
Posts: 2209
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Date: 8/12/13 5:55 AM

Heres another way for wovens. Cargo or jeans shorts.
Cut then serge around all pattern pieces.
Use sewing machine to baste together.
Alter to fit. Revise flat pattern.

Now you have 2 choices.
1. Serge all pieces and construct on machine. You will have clean edges inside
2. Or use serger for all leg seam construction. Finish hems, fly, pockets, waistband on SM.

HTH

------
sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

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