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Woven Bias Strips and neckline finishing
Crazy idea or not?
simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 8/8/13 9:55 PM

I'm working on a woven top that has a bias strip finish on the neckline that get's flipped to the inside and topstitched down. I have never been a fan of that look when it's finished.

The finish I do like is the one used on knit necklines where you stretch the fabric and steam and shape on a ham.

If anybody has tried it would you let me know how it worked? Am I crazy for even thinking it might work???

My plan is for the finished binding width to be about 1/4-3/8" wide at the most. Similar to what I do on knits. I hate to try it on the top (before any feedback) because the fabric is a rayon challis. Loosey goosey and frays like mad!

Debbie

Rita K
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 8/8/13 10:06 PM

You can definitely do this. I believe doing so is called french binding. Might be in the Vogue sewing book or perhaps you can google for a tutorial.

simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 8/8/13 10:25 PM

No, it's not a French binding I'm talking about.

What I'm talking about is a binding similar to what you see on RTW T shirts. Not where you're folding the bias strip back over the seam.

Thanks anyway.

Debbie

CM_Sews
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 8/8/13 11:01 PM

The ribbing neckline finish on RTW T-shirts depends on the ribbing being much smaller than the neck opening (1/3 to 1/4 smaller) and then stretching the ribbing as you sew it onto the neckline, thus drawing in the neckline so it lays flat and doesn't gape open.

I'm not sure that you can get a strip of bias woven to behave in quite the same way, because the bias doesn't have that same "shrink back to original size" recovery like a knit does. I'd be worried that the neckline would gape open. You can always make a few test samples to see if it works the way you want it to.

You can put knit ribbing, like a T-shirt neckline, onto a woven.

CMC

simplystitches
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In reply to CM_Sews <<
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Date: 8/8/13 11:48 PM

Quote:
"shrink back to original size" recovery like a knit does.


I think that was what was bothering me. I know how much I stretch knit bands and really didn't think it would work with a bias woven but figured I'd throw it out there for some other opinions.

Thanks,
Debbie
Sewliz
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Date: 8/9/13 0:06 AM

I have done it and it works fine so try it! One time instead of folding the bias in half I used a single layer of instead creating a raw edge effect which was interesting.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to Sewliz <<
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Date: 8/9/13 0:43 AM

Thanks!

I've got more than enough fabric to cut a front neckline to try it.

Raw edge would be great with a bias strip but it's a really drapey rayon challis. I'd be forever trying to press it to stand up instead of flopping over! Plus I've got a few other things I'm doing to this top and I think that's one to many!

You just gave me a great idea for using raw edge bias as trim. I've been trying to push my creativity with my sewing. I felt like I was getting a little stale!


Debbie

simplystitches
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Date: 8/9/13 9:38 PM

I thought I'd update with my results for future search results in case anybody else has the same idea.

SewLiz - you were right. It TOTALLY worked!

What I did-
Cut a bias strip 1 1/2" wide. With a 3/8" seam (serger trimmed to 1/4") I was left with a finished binding that's slightly less than 3/8" wide.

I measured my bias strip before and after gently pressing in half. I wanted to make sure I didn't stretch it pressing.

Sewed one shoulder seam and then applied the bias strip. I didn't want to sew both and have to stretch it for fit to sew in the round like I do with knits. I was afraid it would stretch too much. Cut off the excess binding length and serged the binding edge and sewed the other shoulder seam.

After I got everything pressed on the ham I topstitched.

Hope this helps somebody if they want to try it. I'll add a link to a picture when I get it done.

Debbie

aprilla
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Date: 8/10/13 3:30 AM

Debbie, thank you for posting about your idea!
Yesterday I did the bias edge folded to inside and top stitched as you described. First time, so of course I think it's great LOL but I can see a day when alternate finishes might be preferred. So thanks for this post, I look forward to trying the method you've described and would love to see a photo when you get a chance to post it, to be sure I got it right.
I look forward to trying this, and the raw edge as Sewliz suggests too.

Yesterday I was nervous about making tops, now? not so bad!

I used to knit some elastic thread into necks, cuffs and such to help the ribs... I wonder if fusible elastic could have any use here? I've never used or even seen it (google says it exists), but it could give recovery to a finish, if it did, maybe. Hmmm I need to make a new shopping list LOL

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to aprilla <<


Date: 8/10/13 7:24 AM

Quote:
I wonder if fusible elastic could have any use here?


The biggest problem I see with that is on some thinner woven fabrics it might leave a ridge.

Quote:
google says it exists),


Honestly, I've never seen it. When you think about it though the fusible aspect seems like it would take away the stretchyness of the elastic, unless the fusible part washed out???

Debbie
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