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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Outerwear - Question of ease

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Outerwear - Question of ease
MrsCharisma
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Date: 8/9/13 11:05 AM



Am I reading this right that this pattern contains 10 inches of ease at the bust?? Is that crazy?

What is standard bust/hip ease in lightweight outerwear?

Thanks!

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

JeanM

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In reply to MrsCharisma <<


Date: 8/9/13 11:20 AM

Yes, you are reading this correctly.

Outerwear typically has more ease, in part to allow for comfortable layering of outerwear over whatever other layers one is wearing. The amount of ease will vary; what amount of ease you prefer may vary from the pattern design; unisex designs I think will often have somewhat more wearing ease (I know the sleeves are longer from the couple unisex designs I have made up for me - by several inches).

It might help to see the technical drawing/pattern picture/illustration, to see what the design lines look like.

RMJ
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<


Date: 8/9/13 11:55 AM

I found 10" to be the right amount for this coat:
green pepper jacket

See the "fitting alterations" section of my review for a discussion of the ease.
-- Edited on 8/9/13 11:56 AM --

MrsCharisma
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Date: 8/9/13 12:14 PM

Thanks!! That does look like a good amount of ease RMJ. I of course thought "10 inches! That's insane!!" But right, with layering, etc...you don't want to be putting on a straight jacket. :)

View D

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

DonnaH
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Date: 8/9/13 1:01 PM

Plus several of those views have pockets at the bust. If they are to be usable (and not have the contents poking you), then you will want a bit more ease than on a blouse!

Elona
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<


Date: 8/9/13 1:09 PM

Frankly, that seems like too much ease to me--but of course it depends on what the jacket's fabric is, and how many layers you plan to wear underneath.

I have made a lot of fleece jackets for dh and ds, and even several for myself, and I don't believe I allowed more than about four or five inches of ease, but then, fleece is a stretchy knit, and here in California, it's not cold, so we don't do much layering.

In any case, it looks like a muslin is called for in this particular pattern, just to check how the garment would really fit if the size chart is followed.

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MrsCharisma
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 8/9/13 1:38 PM

Good point. I'm a Minnesotan even now it's 50 degrees in the morning and 80 by afternoon. You *must* dress in layers! :)

BUT also, this isn't a "coat" it's a "jacket" - more like fall than winter...more like layered over a knit top or t-shirt than layered over sweaters, etc.

I do hate making muslins. But perhaps I'll have to muslin up the bodice at the least.

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www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

Nancy K
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<
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Date: 8/9/13 3:03 PM

It depends on the style. Some designs are intended to be worn over layers and still be loose. Other designs are meant to be worn closer to the body, so have less ease. If you don't want that much ease use a smaller size, But, don't use up too much ease on a style that's meant to be loose.

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Nancy K
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<


Date: 8/9/13 3:04 PM

This style has plenty of room for a warm interlining and still be comfortable over bulky layers. You live in Minnesota, so I assume you want warmth.

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MrsCharisma
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 8/9/13 3:28 PM

Quote: Nancy K
It depends on the style. Some designs are intended to be worn over layers and still be loose. Other designs are meant to be worn closer to the body, so have less ease. If you don't want that much ease use a smaller size, But, don't use up too much ease on a style that's meant to be loose.

Great point Nancy. I was looking at more for this time/September before it's too cold...

e.g., it's about 55 degrees when I leave out in the morning. Cool enough to want a jacket, but by noon it's 20 degrees warmer...

------
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

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