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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Attaching jacket lining: techniques

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Attaching jacket lining: techniques
Which method do you use?
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UNITED KINGDOM
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Date: 8/10/13 2:03 PM

I've finally decided on the pattern for my next jacket and have spent all afternoon cutting out the fabric, lining, and interfacing.

Looking ahead, the pattern calls for hand sewing the completed lining on to the shell, including setting the lining sleeves in by hand. (First time I've used the word shell, note.)

Yes, well...... I'm not sure I'm prepared for all that hand sewing when other patterns much more easily attach the completed lining to the shell by sewing up across and down the facings, then deal with the hem and sleeve hems. This seems to be called the 'bagging method'.

I've found a tutorial on this method but notice that it's heavily critiqued at the end. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4366/bag-your-jacket-lining

This seems more than a bit rough, since there are so many good diagrams in there.

Which method do you use, for attaching jacket linings?

Thanks!

beauturbo
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Date: 8/10/13 3:23 PM

I would and have just used the hand sewing way, because for me, things would look a lot better (as in expensively done) in final results, and hang a lot better, and I could control anything minutely by just fingers on fabric and a hand sewing needle and hand sewing particular, jsince just slip stitching a lining into something is really no big deal to me, just since I know how to hand sew, and even like it. And probably very most important, I just don't have to pay myself anything to hand slip stitch a lining into anything either, and it would not take me very long and so it would be win/win for me on the first method.

I'm sure if you were making multiples of something for sale or had a big factory going on making stuff like that, then the tables really all would be turning the other way around, and slanting towards that "bagging" method instead, just since it would be really cost prohibiting to pay a bunch of people to hand slip stitch a lining into anything. Also if you just really hate hand sewing for some reason, then that is another way. I still think you are going to have to have some hand sewing in there though.

nancy2001
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Date: 8/10/13 4:25 PM

I bag all my linings. The best instructions for this technique are in . The Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets.

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Nancy K
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Date: 8/10/13 5:02 PM

I have completely bagged a lining especially for two leather jackets I made where I didn't want to do any handstitching. Palmer Pletsch shows the method in their tailoring book. It works fine but I honestly prefer a mixed method that I found in an old tailoring book by Cecelia Podolak called the Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets. It's out of print but it is probably available used online and it's a very nice book to have and use for the rest of your jacket. You need a back facing for her method. The entire jacket is finished, with the facings tailor tacked down a couple of inches from the facing edge at the bust and down to the waist. The entire lining is constructed with an opening in one sleeve to turn the jacket through. It's all done by machine except for finishing the bottom lining hem. I find it more precise than the totally bagged jacket and her method keeps the facing and hems in place so that they don't shift when you take your jacket on and off. I have done a whole lining by hand and it is time consuming. You can also sew the lining to the facings by machine and hem and hand set the sleeves which keeps them in place better and more discretely than other methods. A jacket is easier to bag than a coat, which I find difficult to maneuver, but you can leave a larger section of cb open and this turns more easily.

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Date: 8/10/13 5:06 PM

I agree, Nancy. Cecilia Podolak's Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets has the world's best instructions on bagging a lining. And you can buy the book on amazon for just one penny!

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

wenznz
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Date: 8/10/13 5:40 PM

The Cecelia Podolak book while out of print is available as a PDF download here from the Threads/Taunton store.

I have also found a photo tutorial from Jen of Grainline Studios that looks to be quite clear on the whole process of bagging a lining here

HTH

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Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

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Date: 8/11/13 1:14 AM

I am not a fan of hand sewing anything I don't have to, and would like to learn the bagging method used by machine. But recently I made a jacket using Threads Magazine "Line and Interline in One Step" method. It was easy and worked out looking polished and a neat finish. However, it might not work for everything. I still would like to learn the bagging method, but here is what I did and I will do it again:

My Webpage

Maybe it will work for your jacket and save you loads of time! :-)

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

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Date: 8/11/13 2:32 PM

Many thanks for all the answers, and Hi Nancy and Nancy!

I have taken all that on board, and will definitely bag the lining of the current work in progress jacket.

More on that later, no doubt, knowing me.

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Date: 8/11/13 9:54 PM

Funny, my real name is Nancy, too. So is it "Hi Nancy, Nancy and Nancy"? LOL. Good luck on your lining bagging and I am looking forward to your review and tips!
-- Edited on 8/11/13 9:56 PM --

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

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Date: 8/11/13 10:42 PM

Oh no, not another Nancy! And I'm also a libra!

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