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Forum > Fitting Woes > Long from neck to underbust ? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Long from neck to underbust ?
pattern adjustment help
TypicalApple
TypicalApple
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 6/12/11
Posts: 2
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Date: 8/11/13 7:04 AM

Hi I was wondering if you very knowledgeable people could give me some advice please.

I have always had problems with the fitting of shop bought blouses, particularly ones with an empire line or ones with an underbust to waist band, quite simply they always cut across the bottom of my bust and the bottom of the band is short of my natural waist line

I have figured out this is probably because my neck to underbust measurement is longer than most, I'm thinking of making an empire line blouse but am not sure where to add the extra length.

I originally thought to add an inch or so on the end of the top bodice piece but then I think the bust dart will be too high for me, so then I thought about spreading the pattern above the bust dart but below the arm hole.

Have any of you ladies had this problem , may I ask what pattern adjustments you make. Thank you

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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Ohio USA
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In reply to TypicalApple <<


Date: 8/11/13 9:52 AM

Add where you think you need the length. I have a long torso. Sometimes I need to drop right at underbust to drop the dart and sometimes I can get away with adding length to the lower edge. You can cut the pattern and add length where you need it. I would suggest tracing the pattern first if you don't usually do this. Keep in mind that you may have to adjust the armhole if what you add lengthens that too. Do you have a pattern in mind?

TypicalApple
TypicalApple
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 6/12/11
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Date: 8/11/13 12:34 PM

TBH Marie no I don't have a specific pattern I thought I would pick your brains before I bought one , I like this one 'http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/26493 from on here.

I hope that opens correctly

This shape is difficult for me too

http://www.etsy.com/listing/76761787/mccalls-pattern-m5137-womens-hippie-boho

I am not a very experienced seamstress so if you could keep explanations nice and simple, like me
-- Edited on 8/11/13 12:40 PM --

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to TypicalApple <<
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Date: 8/11/13 4:03 PM

Are you bigger than a B cup? If so a full bust adjustment would give you some of the length you are looking for

Marie367
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In reply to TypicalApple <<


Date: 8/11/13 8:53 PM

I have that Simplicity 2690 2690
I made it but have not reviewed it. I would like to make it again and drop the under bust elastic. I think I can add to the bottom of the bodice pieces but I might not be remembering the pattern correctly. So you have not made this yet? Do you have a fit book yet? I have an older Reader's Digest that is a big help. I will try to find this pattern and look at the pieces again but I think it can be done below the armholes. Sorry I am not more help.
This did turn out cute and I want to make it again.

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/11/13 11:23 PM

I can never buy RTW tops with an empire line either; it always falls too high on me and I'm not super busty. Sandra Betzina in Fast Fit talks about this alteration and I use her method which lengthens the armhole - you also have to lengthen the sleeve. If you don't need extra room in the upper arm, then you can lengthen between shoulder and bust while leaving the armscye alone. It all depends on where on your torso you are longer than the pattern.

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EleanorSews
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Date: 8/11/13 11:31 PM

It might be helpful to measure from mid-shoulder to your bust point and check that against the pattern. You might need to adjust the pattern for where your bust is actually located. It's is something I've begun exploring based on a class at Craftsy. It is making a difference as I muslin away trying to deal with fit and my 64 yr old body. I can also see it as being useful in fitting my daughter.

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"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

Bertuccigirl
Bertuccigirl
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Member since 8/24/13
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Date: 8/24/13 8:01 PM

Newbie here! Hi there.

I have this same issue. I have lengthened at the shoulder before, but it does make the armhole bigger. I was wondering if there was a way to bring the armhole back to the original size. I am looking forward to roaming around and checking out the feat of these boards!

Julia C
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In reply to TypicalApple <<


Date: 8/24/13 11:05 PM

I originally thought to add an inch or so on the end of the top bodice piece but then I think the bust dart will be too high for me, so then I thought about spreading the pattern above the bust dart but below the arm hole.

I add below the armhole as they fit correctly. If the armhole is too tight it will be too tight all over on me.
An inch may/may not be too much. I started measuring between where I want the sleeve & bustpoint using a quilting ruler held in placeabout 1/2-3/4" from my armpit. Seemed to work much better on the 2 muslins since I tried it. Previously, I was using the "By guess & by golly" method.

MNBarb
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Date: 8/26/13 1:23 PM

I add length just below the armhole which lowers the bust point and lengthens the bodice, which I need, but doesn't make the armscye bigger.

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Barb
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"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

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