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How to sew inside corners on a boxed cushion
rgustafs
rgustafs
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Date: 8/11/13 5:27 PM

I know it's a home dec q, but this forum gets more traffic.

I am sewing a cushion cover for an antique ottoman. It is clear that i dont know the right terminology for what i am asking because i have been searching for info for the last few hours.

To help you understand what i am asking...think of it like covering a small rectangular mattress that's 34" by 18" by 2.5" deep. The only catch is that it has .5" x .5" notches taken out of each corner, where the mattress fits up against wooden legs. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to sew these "inside corners" on this cushion.

I have cut top, bottom, and 4 side pieces with .5" seam allowances. I notched the corners out of the top and bottom pieces, and now i am stumped. I feel like I could just sew it all together quickly if it weren't for these darn inside corner notch things. Should the sides be all one long strip of fabric? Would that make it easier? I am sure it's easy but my mind just can't get there from here.

Anyone have any tutorials they can point me to that might help me wrap my mind around this or can you explain it?

Thank goodness I am just working with muslin right now because I'd hate to ruin the fantastic velvet that will eventually be the ottoman fabric. Sad thing is I can make my own piping and put in an invisible zipper, but these darn corners are making me question everything. Grrrrrr.

Thanks in advance. Going off to Google some more!

Rgustafs

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to rgustafs <<
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Date: 8/11/13 5:49 PM

I'm sorry to say that I am not a picture poster but perhaps this will help. Use gift wrap or taped together brown paper bags to 'wrap' your ottoman. Carefully mark the hems and notches on the paper. You can clip into the paper if necessary.

Painter's tape would be perfect for tucking in the paper corners as it will allow you to mark the corners and then untape and unfold the paper to make a flat pattern and add hems.

You'll be able to use the marked paper wrapping to make a whole pattern or to just pattern off the notches.

If you use it to make a whole pattern, use a measuring tape measurement to check the length and width - you would probably need to adjust some (fraction of inch) out as the paper pattern would be looser than the finished fit.
.................
I would most likely stay stitch up to the corners that will have to be clipped.

Once you have patterned your project you can stitch it up in heavy paper or a cheap piece of fabric (old sheet, anything) to double check the placement of the notches.
...................
No. 24, page 3
You will have to cut notches like this. Note the illustrated stay stitching. Seam tape or a bit of interfacing can be stitched in to add reinforcement, help prevent raveling (don't think that will be a problem with velvet) and provide extra definition to the turned edge of the cloth.

The clip into the corner will have you sucking your breath in the first time you do it. Again, try it on the paper. If you don't clip in far enough you can't make crisp inside corners.
-- Edited on 8/11/13 6:03 PM --

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

a7yrstitch
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Date: 8/11/13 6:18 PM

Or, How to Sew Fabulous Seat Cushions, go to the last picture before step 4.

See how the corners are actually seams of two strips of fabric. Does that help give a different perspective on the corners?

Visualizing just the left strip (side band) leading to the corner seam,
That strip has to be hemmed at (say) 4 inches at the outer .5 finished inches.
So, .5 inches to be hemmed at the shorter length plus .5 inches seam allowance.

The rest of the strip (side band) needs to be hemmed at 4.5 inches (except, of course the other end - which would be a mirror image of this end).

Does that help with notch placement?

Even if you miter your box corners instead of using a separate band your 'mattress' will still be 'banded'.

Sorry, had to relink, How to Sew Seat Cushions, second try.
-- Edited on 8/11/13 6:21 PM --

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

a7yrstitch
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In reply to rgustafs <<
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Date: 8/11/13 6:25 PM

If you need another visual, take a box that you have around the house and make a paper pattern as described above for the corner of the box. Mark everything, unfold the paper and add seam allowances and clip the inside corners.

Fold and tape the paper as if you had sewn it and slip it back on the box to check the 'fit' on the box. Use this as a guide to fitting your mini 'mattress'.

-- Edited on 8/11/13 6:27 PM --

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

rgustafs
rgustafs
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Member since 10/29/07
Posts: 11
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Date: 8/12/13 11:02 AM

Thanks, a7yearstich! After reading your posts several times, building a cardboard mini-model, googling for more visuals, and sleeping on it, I *THINK* I have come up with a plan of attack.

The side bands/strips around the side of the mattress will need to be .5 inches longer than the top and bottom pieces, as they will be joined at the inside or inset corner of the notches around the legs.

To minimize bulk (velvet upholstery weight fabric plus velvet piping), I am thinking that I will handle the outside corners like this.

Then for the inside corners, I just need to keep looking at the drawings to which you linked and this Threads video on Inset Corners.

Still not sure if it will work, but thank goodness for muslin. If you have thoughts or other ideas, please don't hesitate to let me know. I am going to have all day at work to think about it before I can get home to sew. Ugh.

Thanks!

a7yrstitch
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Date: 8/12/13 12:19 PM

I think you've got it.

The Shirley Smith Threads video is a thing of beauty - well done in finding it! We should both check to see what other video tutorials she has.

Thank you for having the patience to go through my clumsy explanation. I hope that you will keep the paper pattern trials in mind for future puzzlers. Having a 3D visual can really help sort through turning a flat piece of fabric into a shaped object.

You're giving yourself a gift by tackling this project. I don't know if you are a garment sewer, or plan to be, but learning to manipulate inside and outside corners early on will help you produce very nice and sharp details on anything you do.

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

a7yrstitch
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Date: 12/15/13 8:46 PM

Bumping for question.

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

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