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Raising the Cowl Neck on Butterick B5778 Dress
amysayssew
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amysayssew
Member since 9/7/08
Posts: 190
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 8/13/13 9:32 PM

How would I go about raising the cowl neck of Butterick B5778?

It has a front stay.

I've looked up different tutorials, including the cowl neck thread on PR, but the cowl pattern looks different than mine (this is my first cowl neck). When I tried to slash and overlap, it took too much off of the neckline of the front stay.

I want to raise the neckline about 1 inch.

Thanks!

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SandiMacD
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SandiMacD
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Date: 8/14/13 4:11 AM

I was watching Its Sew Easy a few dats ago and the episode had you take a regular neckline (wherever you like it to normally fall) and convert it to a cowl.
Heres the episode segment on YT:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=plpp&v=5fXM2Kpq2_U

I am guessing you would somehow have to work backward with the cowl pattern to decrease the distance from the shoulder to the center line, raise the neckline and then redraft the cowl.

Hope someone has a more direct answer for you

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CSM--Carla
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CSM--Carla  Friend of PR
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In reply to amysayssew

Date: 8/14/13 8:12 AM

Here's a discussion that helped me understand how to do this on another pattern. Maybe it will help you with this one.
amysayssew
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amysayssew
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Posts: 190
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In reply to CSM--Carla

Date: 8/14/13 3:09 PM

That's the one I tried but removing from the center front took too much off of the neckline on the front stay. :(

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Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
Ohio USA
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In reply to amysayssew

Date: 8/14/13 4:01 PM

I don't know a specific way to do this nor probably the "right" way if there is a right way. I am wondering if you could add more fabric at the middle then pull the edge up a little higher? It looks like it attaches at the shoulder so you could play around with the drape a little when you attach it. You don't need much. I do that with Simplicity 1716 and it works. Adding a little extra keeps the drape. HTH
Mole Princess
Mole Princess
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Date: 8/14/13 10:19 PM

Maybe slash pattern at about the center of the armhole, straight across (perp to grainline). Lift lower part of bodice and overlap over upper part one inch, keeping cut edges of pattern parallel, then blend the neckline edge into a smooth line by starting from shoulder and heading down to unchanged CF.

I'd have to think this through myself or mock it up somehow but consider how this will affect desired width. You may want to make the slash a bit higher if you don't want to lose any width.

Enjoy!
amysayssew
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amysayssew
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Date: 8/15/13 9:32 PM

If it helps, here are pictures of my pattern:



On the left is the bodice front and on the right is the front stay. The two are stitched together at the neck and shoulders. Then there is a bodice side front that attaches to that unit and has the rest of the shoulder and the armhole.

I'm wondering if I can do an alteration like this, where I take off a little at the shoulder to raise the cowl:



Here is the front stay and the side front. The red lines are the new seam line and cut line. Is this okay? Will it shorten the bodice and mess up the placement of the waist?

Thanks for your help!

Edited to add: I'm also planning to raise the armhole by 5/8". Should I not taper the new seam line at the shoulder to nothing and instead keep going and take off the length at the shoulder, so that the new seam line is not diagonal but more straight across?

Like this?


-- Edited on 8/15/13 9:39 PM --

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utahliz
utahliz
Michigan USA
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Date: 8/16/13 10:26 AM

If you need to adjust the shoulder seam for reasons of fit, then do so. But if you're doing this only to raise the cowl, you'll throw off the fit at the shoulder.

To raise the cowl, you want to decrease the width of the pattern piece, so it doesn't droop down as low. Make a vertical slash (or more than one) between the side of the pattern piece and the center front, leaving just a tiny hinge of paper at the bottom seamline of the pattern piece. Then pivot at each hinge to remove wedge(s) at the upper edge, and re-draw the upper and lower seamlines to a pleasing curve.

Would love to see pics of the finished dress--I have the same pattern but haven't sewn it up yet.

Liz
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