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Drafting a lining pattern
Some questions.....
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/19/13
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Date: 8/17/13 12:24 PM

I have to make my own lining pattern: it's not as easy as described, it seems to me, so I'm stuck now until someone comes along and answers these questions, please!

1. The jacket front/s have darts (bust dart and fisheye waist dart). Do I have to construct the same darts on the lining pieces? Ditto the back with the fisheye waist dart.

2. This pattern has a shawl collar - no lapels. Therefore the front facing goes round to centre back neck. There is no back neck facing, to which to attach the lining. What do I do about that?

3. I understand about putting the back 1" away from fold line to make a pleat, I understand about armhole adjustments on front back and sleeve parts. It's just the dart-question and the collar+no neck facing questions which are holding me up.

Many thanks.

Here is an image I found on the net showing the front with front facing superimposed and resultant shape for drafting a lining pattern...

click here
-- Edited on 8/17/13 12:49 PM --

nancy2001
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In reply to Handshake <<


Date: 8/17/13 3:26 PM

1. Yes. For this particular garment, you should construct the same darts on your lining as on your jacket.

2. You need to construct a back neck facing. See the Podolak Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets instructions on cutting a lining for a picture of what your back neck facing should look like. Incidentally, the fact that your style is a shawl collar has no effect on your need for a back neck facing.

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UNITED KINGDOM
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In reply to nancy2001 <<


Date: 8/17/13 3:48 PM

Quote: nancy2001
1. Yes. For this particular garment, you should construct the same darts on your lining as on your jacket.



2. You need to construct a back neck facing. See the Podolak Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets instructions on cutting a lining for a picture of what your back neck facing should look like. Incidentally, the fact that your style is a shawl collar has no effect on your need for a back neck facing.

Thanks for the reply here

1. ok (but in another Burda pattern the lining darts were different from the shell darts...... just saying)

2. I don't have that book, but I do have a photo of that page, I think, sent to me by email.

It seems to me that the missing back facing, on this pattern will fit into the L-shaped 'hole' left by the shawl collar all-around facing - which leaves a GAP at centre back.

IF I'm going to construct a back facing, it will have to be soon, i.e, now. I'm about to start sewing this jacket together!

I had thought of making a lining pattern and just sewing the back collar in by hand........
nancy2001
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In reply to Handshake <<


Date: 8/17/13 4:39 PM

1. . The only requirement for a lining is that it fit you. So it can have the same darts as your jacket or different darts. If you can get the lining to fit with the same darts as the jacket, that's all that matters.

2. In the extreme upper left hand corner of this page you will see a small curved shape. This is what your back neck facing would look like if you folded it in half at the center.

Handshake, you have written, "It seems to me that the missing back facing, on this pattern will fit into the L-shaped 'hole' left by the shawl collar all-around facing - which leaves a GAP at centre back." Handshake, the facing you create should fill in all the holes. There should be no gap at the center back.

Here are photos of the inside of a shawl collared jacket I made last year. You can see the back neck facing which is attached to the front facings, the upper collar, and the lining. There are no holes or gaps anywhere because the facing fills them in.

photo 1

photo 2

photo 3

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