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Forum > Fitting Woes > Fitting shorts ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting shorts
I made a muslin...so why don't these fit?
ElsieLC
ElsieLC  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/17/13 12:39 PM

These shorts are based on Silhouette Patterns #3600, Ralph's Pants. I made a muslin and tried different changes till I got what I thought would work. They look great, but they're just too big! Plus I think there are other fitting issues, which I can't even think about, since they keep sliding down my hips! On the muslin, I did try bringing in the side seams, but it made the back ride up my fanny.

Changes I made to adjust the fit: instead of darts in the back, I adjusted the CB seam and waistband to prevent gapping when I sit down. Lowered the front waistband to feel more comfortable.

Changes I made for fun: altered the line of the pockets, just for fun. Added belt loops (but only 4--should've added 5 or 6). Lined the pockets and waistband with fun fabric (not shown).

Changes I made accidentally: put the button in the wrong spot, but I like the way it looks





A philosophical question: when do you quit tinkering with a muslin, a pattern, a finished garment, and just move on to the next version? I have lots of nice fabric waiting to be turned into pants and shorts, but I don't want to do it until I have a better pattern.

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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Date: 8/17/13 12:55 PM

Run elastic inside the waist band to see if this will help to eliminate the sliding.

The don't look too big.

------
"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

"Isnít it a shame in todayís world you canít tell the truth? If you tell the truth youíre abrasive. If you lie youíre charming." - Bob Huggins/College Basket Ball Coach

JTink
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In reply to ElsieLC <<
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Date: 8/17/13 1:00 PM

Well let's see. I've been tinkering with muslins for this one pair of pants I'm working on, for over a month now. I wonder if the tinkering ever stops

These really don't look bad at all.

You have the same situation on the bottom of the butt that I do. I have a 2 inch area that just wants to grab the material. I've been working steady for over 3 years to figure it out how to fix it.

I would add a little more height to the top of the center back seam. See how it is pulling down? Or you could try scooping the back crotch. Scooping doesn't work for me. Or just add a little more the back crotch point. This might fix the "grabbing" and the odd wrinkle in the front. It's all trial and error. Each person has to find the right combination that works for them. I'm heading back in to the sewing room, where muslin #4 is waiting

kayco
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Date: 8/17/13 1:19 PM

Try sewing the entire center (crotch) seam with a deeper seam allowance from the top of the front to the top of the back. This will decrease the circumference of the waist, abdomen and hips, but will increase the room in the crotch. I can't see the "too big" part, but it does look to me like you don't have enough crotch depth and or curve. Also even if the waist circumference is correct the crotch depth may be what's pulling them down in the first place. I know this is a quick fix and maybe not what you're aiming for with a muslin, but it could help you discover something about your bodyís proportions. Don't cut down the seam, just baste it. You also may find it interesting to use a different seam allowance on different parts of the seam. For example: deeper at waist and crotch and narrower in between. Overall I think you have a pretty close fit and i's worth it to keep working on your muslin. You've done a great job.

------
Palace - Babylock Ovation - She makes me feel like a Princess
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simplystitches
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In reply to ElsieLC <<
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Date: 8/17/13 4:05 PM

Quote:
instead of darts in the back, I adjusted the CB seam and waistband to prevent gapping when I sit down.


When you removed the darts through the cb seam you changed the angle and actually shortened it. That's why you're getting the wrinkles below the butt and the dip at cb. That's also probably why you had problems trying to take in the ss.

I've made this pattern and had a near perfect fit right out of the envelope. If you've watched Peggy's webcasts on fitting pants and follow her alteration methods you will get a good fit.

Our ASG started a Silhouette fitting group and I've seen at least 15 women of all shapes and sizes perfectly fit in her pants patterns if you follow her methods. I've found trying to use other alteration methods (like Palmer & Pletsch) just don't work with her patterns nor does using her methods always work on other patterns.

I'm really not trying to sound harsh. Honest.

As for the looseness have you washed them yet? Fabric relaxes a lot with all the pressing as you're sewing. That's why I don't hem pants until I've washed them. Other wise they end up too short.

Debbie
-- Edited on 8/17/13 4:22 PM --
ElsieLC
ElsieLC  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/17/13 7:40 PM

Truly they are too big--when I walked around the block I had to keep my hands in my pockets to hold them up!

Thank you, everyone, for the kind words and the analysis.

I have watched some of the Peggy Sagers videos and attended one of her pants-fitting lectures at Sew Expo. Maybe I read too much conflicting non-Sagers advice on the Internet? I didn't realize the fitting methods weren't interchangeable. (I also wonder why her methods *sound* so simple, and others' methods sound complicated.)

But I'm still confused about why the muslin (a poly-cotton blend from a thrift store) fits tighter than the denim. I will try washing the shorts to see if they shrink up.

I have a pair of RTW ugly-colored shorts that are a similar style (and similarly too large), and I noted that they're exactly the same size. So I stitched an extra 1/4 seam on the sides of the ugly shorts to see if that would help the overall fit. It did. I wonder if I just picked a too-big size from the Silhouette size chart? It said I should make a size "18"; in cheap RTW I'm a 12 or 14...don't know if that's significant.

Debbie, you've encouraged me to give it another go. I'd always rather use a pattern that works straight out of the envelope! And I'll be back with a blouse fitting problem soon...this was the easy pattern!

simplystitches
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In reply to ElsieLC <<
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Date: 8/17/13 8:33 PM

Quote:
I wonder if I just picked a too-big size from the Silhouette size chart? It said I should make a size "18";


If you have a pair of RTW shorts that you like the fit of in the hips measure the hips and choose the pattern size that way. Her patterns are sized by finished measurements, unlike the Big4. If it says a 38" hip, its a 38" hip. It's easier to grade up the waist if needed. I'm thick through the waist compared to my hips and I didn't have to alter anything for the waist to fit. The Ralph pant fit me in the same size as I'd buy in RTW if they fit. Which they don't. That's why I make my pants. Actually I make everything I wear!

Quote:
Maybe I read too much conflicting non-Sagers advice on the Internet? I didn't realize the fitting methods weren't interchangeable.


I've made and fit others using the methods from Palmer & Pletsch. When I started fitting her patterns I had a hard time letting go of my previous methods but the really don't work with her patterns. There's something different about the Peggy's pants draft. One of her webcasts she clearly stated that she took her draft from, I think, Ann Klein. And yes, her methods are that simple and do work!

Quote:
But I'm still confused about why the muslin (a poly-cotton blend from a thrift store) fits tighter than the denim
Poly-cotton is a firmer fabric than denim. Think about how much a pair of jeans stretches out as you wear them. The denim has relaxed as you've pressed them when sewing. Wash them. You'll see a difference in the fit. I've made jeans and if I hem them before washing (after making w/lots of pressing) they will shrink a minimum of 1" and sometimes more!

Try again with maybe a different size. I can understand wanting to remove the dart because you're adding a pocket but don't. As I said when you remove it from the cb seam it messes everything up. On mine the back dart is pretty small and you should be able to ease it into the waistband if needed. But honestly with the pocket you won't even know it's there.

Debbie
woggy
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 8/17/13 9:37 PM

Liz Clairborne pants are the model for Peggy's pants.

Peggy mentioned in one of her webcasts that Liz spent a great deal of time/effort designing her pants pattern.

Woggy

MrsCharisma
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In reply to kayco <<


Date: 8/17/13 10:01 PM

Quote: kayco
Try sewing the entire center (crotch) seam with a deeper seam allowance

I've seen this a lot but what does it actually mean?! Lol. Greater SA?

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Kenmore 1503 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 39.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to woggy <<


Date: 8/17/13 11:12 PM

Thanks! I couldn't remember and that was the first name that came to mind and they always say go with your first instinct!

Debbie

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