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Forum > Fitting Woes > Finally...1 Pair Fits! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Finally...1 Pair Fits!
M.S.
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M.S.
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Member since 3/6/09
Posts: 1254
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Date: 8/21/13 1:58 PM

I've been working on pants.

My fitting problems are thighs usually too tight, protruding front thigh, fluffy inner thighs, protruding fanny, gravity working on the fanny, large hips compared to waist, 36" inseam.

I finally figured out that I'm beating a dead horse, trying to get certain styles to fit. Just because you sew, doesn't mean you can start with any pant style and have success!

Here are some things that helped me get decent pants:
1. I started with a basic pattern that has front and back darts, and a contoured waistband. I need the front darts so there's enough fabric to go around my front thigh curve. The failure pants I'd been trying have no front dart. Hmm.

2. Narrow legs usually don't work well for me. I just need to admit it. A style that flows from the hip and flares a bit at the foot is better. Styles that come in too much at the knee just make my hips look wide. A little flare looks better with my gigantic feet.

3. Fabric. This is huge! Heavier fabrics, without lycra, that drape just work better for my pants. Thin, fabrics show everything...underwear lines, bulges, etc. Lycra is not going to fix a poor fit. Lycra also adds another variable into your fitting, as no 2 fabrics will stretch the exact same amount. I have decided Lycra will be reserved for swimwear.

4. Lining! I am over 40. My pants must be lined. They just hang better! I learned to add some wearing ease to lining. Take a smaller seam allowance on the out seam, so you can sit down in your pants.

So, if you're having trouble making pants that hang correctly, maybe a trip to the mall to try on pants is in order. Figure out which styles flatter your figure to begin with.

marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 8/21/13 2:01 PM

Great advice!!

Consider taking a tape measure with you and measure the pants that flatter. Get that actual inseam and the bottom leg opening measurement. You can compare with your pattern ....

------
Mary


MrsCharisma
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In reply to marymary86 <<
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Date: 8/21/13 4:21 PM

Quote: marymary86
Great advice!!



Consider taking a tape measure with you and measure the pants that flatter. Get that actual inseam and the bottom leg opening measurement. You can compare with your pattern ....

I second this.

I was working on pants and then what actually got me to a good fit was taking my best fitting RTW pants and measuring them out. Then I found a pattern that had a similar line to those and started working on matching them up. I made 2 muslins, a few tweaks and now have a TNT pants pattern. I've made 1 and have 2 pair cut and ready to sew.

I measured:

Waist
Hips
Front crotch length (mine is REALLY short)
back crotch length
thigh width right below the crotch then at 3" intervals down the leg on front and back
distance from crotch to knee then knee to hem
width of front leg opening vs. back
inseam

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

MrsCharisma
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Date: 8/21/13 4:23 PM

And duh...congrats on fitting pants!!! :)

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

M.S.
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M.S.
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<
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Date: 8/21/13 4:48 PM

Haha, thank you!

KathySews
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Date: 8/21/13 6:19 PM

I am one of those who seem to always select styles that don't fit my body.

Congrats on getting to a tnt pant pattern

Dianne22
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Dianne22  Friend of PR
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Texas USA
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In reply to M.S. <<
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Date: 8/22/13 5:23 PM

Amen to everything you just said! Clothes are not designed to repair our figure flaws, just help minimize them. We have got to accept the shape we're in and stop trying to squeeze our aging bodies into the shapes we remember that we used to wear years ago but that don't begin to work today. I, too, have found that the lycra-free pant fabrics that are the right size and shape work better for me. My figure is very similar to yours except that that my tummy protrudes but the fanny just droops and my inseam is only 29" to 30" depending on the style of my shoes (can't wear heels any more since my ankle has been fused and the foot doesn't bend at the ankle). I am convinced, however, that I was supposed to be 5'10" tall not 5'4". I know this because all those clothes that I love would fit if I had been born with the correct height!

carolbee
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Date: 8/22/13 7:13 PM

love your post Dianne 22!

Arctic Mama
Arctic Mama
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Date: 8/22/13 11:14 PM

Fitting pants is SO tricky! Working with the styles that suit your body best is definitely a wiser starting point than trying to reinvent the wheel, so to speak, to make a trendy cut fit when it's not quite right :)

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