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Bias skirt hemming
cakemix
cakemix
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Member since 12/23/11
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Date: 8/23/13 5:39 PM

I've been searching online about hemming a bias cut garment- in my case a skirt.

I've read many different opinions on what to do.
One person said that it's necessary to let the garment hang for at least 2-3 weeks!

Others have said they hang their garment over night- 24 hrs before hemming.
what say you all?

tinflutterby
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Date: 8/24/13 2:05 AM

IMHO it depends on the weight and stability of the fabric. If it is reasonably stable I will hang it overnight. If it is heavy and unstable I hang it on my (otherwise useless) dress form for as long as I can since I don't want all the weight hanging from just 2 or3 points.

Elona
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In reply to cakemix <<
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Date: 8/24/13 2:32 AM

Most sewing sources tell you to let a bias garment hang passively for hours to roughly forever before hemming. However, there is a contrarian approach favored by Sandra Betzina and Marcy Tilton (whose classes on the subject I have taken, and she makes a convincing case). This is her advice:

Quote:
Remove excess stretch
To prevent bias-cut garments from continuing to stretch as they're worn, it helps to press each pattern section to remove some of the stretch before construction. Pressing simulates the effect of gravity and results in a more stable garment. This step is a lifesaver when working with silky, gauzy, or loosely woven fabrics.

After cutting the fabric and removing the pattern, press each piece firmly, gently, and evenly from top to bottom. Now repin the pattern onto the fabric, adjusting seamlines if the piece has grown smaller.

Sewing bias seams
The key to smooth vertical bias seams that won't pop when the garment is worn is to stretch them as you sew, using a 2.5- to 3-mm stitch. The seam will look rippled after stitching but will press out beautifully. You don't need to stretch as you sew shoulder seams because they're not cut on the true bias, and so don't stretch as much.


This is from her admirable Threads article on bias here.
Lynnelle
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Subject: Topic moved Date: 8/24/13 8:33 AM

This topic has been moved from Creative Sewing to Sewing Techniques and Tips

Janie Viers
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Date: 8/26/13 6:50 PM

I want to second the stretch and press method and aslo the hang it up til you have to hem it. Also, do have someone fit the hem on the person becasue the is especially important on a bias cut garment so the back or front isn't sagging and giving the impression that no one cared to hem it properly.

------
JanieV

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