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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Full Bust Adjustment - a Different Way

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Full Bust Adjustment - a Different Way
Longblades
Longblades
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 8/24/13 8:20 AM

Waist Preserving FBA

Has anyone used this method? This is similar to instructions in my old, old Simplicity Sewing Book. Any pros or cons you have found from this method?

thefunimalist
thefunimalist
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Date: 8/24/13 9:46 AM

That bodice is meant to be gathered at CF. See the finished garment here: http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/5--robe-sureau.html

The adjustment shown would only work for patterns that are also gathered at CF, I believe. If you're looking for FBA techniques that don't enlarge the waist, theres a method shown here: http://blog.megannielsen.com/2012/04/full-bust-adjustments-alternate-methods-discussion/, but I haven't tried it myself.

Longblades
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In reply to thefunimalist <<


Date: 8/24/13 12:28 PM

Thanks. I looked at the link to the finished garment and it is the skirt that is gathered, right? Not the bodice. It doesn't matter that the skirt part is gathered, the waist size in the original pattern is still preserved. The skirt pattern looks like it did not need to be altered to correspond with the bodice.

The second link looks similar to the one I found, just slashes at a different place.

thefunimalist
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Date: 8/24/13 1:00 PM

The bodice is gathered along the center front seam--look at the placket in the technical drawing. The adjustment you posted increases the length to be gathered. If you used the same adjustment on a garment that didn't have gathers or a dart to take in the extra fullness, you'd end up with too much length along the CF seam.

marymary86
marymary86
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thumbsup 3 members like this.
Date: 8/24/13 1:22 PM

Sham's blog Communing With Fabric has lots of tutorials for doing FBAs and her method preserves the waist.

It's worth checking out (look at the top of her blog for something like "Resources for the uber busty" and read everything she personally wrote on that topic.

She's rocking my sewing world.

------
Mary


Longblades
Longblades
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In reply to thefunimalist <<


Date: 8/24/13 1:24 PM

Oh, oh, oh, now I see what you mean. My concern was with the waistline but now that I see the CF I still don't understand your point? Isn't the waistline original size preserved?

Wait, I think I might getting it.

Yep I got it. LOL. Thanks for being sew patient with me.

thefunimalist
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Date: 8/24/13 2:12 PM

Happy to help.

The Megan Nielsen method I posted is basically the same as the Deer & Doe method you posted, except that Megan Nielsen opens up a dart at the side seam while Deer & Doe opens up a dart at center front and converts it to gathers. Either way, you have to take in the excess fabric somehow.

Longblades
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In reply to thefunimalist <<


Date: 8/24/13 8:43 PM

No, dag nab it, I think it preserves the size of the waist as I originally thought.

This is awful, this thought popped into my head as I was driving home on the limited access highway doing 100 kph. I didn't hear or feel any bumps so I hope while I was driving distracted by pattern altering thoughts I didn't hit anybody. That was supposed to be a joke.

But I do think I understand where both of us are coming from. I think this method preserves the width of the waistline, and it does. Right? But it only preserved the height of the waistline because the CF was gathered. My fault for not specifying in the first place which aspect of a waistline I was thinking of.

KiwiWendy
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KiwiWendy
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In reply to Longblades <<


Date: 8/25/13 1:36 AM

Quote: Longblades
But I do think I understand where both of us are coming from. I think this method preserves the width of the waistline, and it does. Right? But it only preserved the height of the waistline because the CF was gathered. My fault for not specifying in the first place which aspect of a waistline I was thinking of.

But the waistline doesn't have a height, so now I'm confused by your original question. If you're referring to CF bodice length ie neck to waist then that isn't a waist-line height. (or at least not in my years of home sewing & trade pattern making training)

------
Sydney, Australia

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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In reply to thefunimalist <<


Date: 8/25/13 1:39 AM

Quote: thefunimalist
while Deer & Doe opens up a dart at center front and converts it to gathers.

Pretty sure that the original bodice *already* had a gathered front, so that's why the "dart" (gathers) was added there.

Quote: thefunimalist
Either way, you have to take in the excess fabric somehow.


But, yes ... agreed.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

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