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Forum > Fitting Woes > FBA on jacket with side panels? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA on jacket with side panels?
Is this a true princess seam?
piakdy
piakdy
Member since 8/6/11
Posts: 28
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 8/27/13 10:36 AM

Hello all you lovely busty ladies,

I need help with a FBA on a trench coat pattern. I'm trying to tissue fit McCall 5525 following Pletsch / Palmer's instruction in Jackets for Real People. But I'm confused about whether this pattern has a true princess seam or not.

In the book, the authors has an example on p42 where there is a side front panel as well, but they say it's "not a princess style", so the FBA is done only on the front panel - not to the side front panel. Later on they had an example of princess seam jacket (p47) where the FBA is done primarily to the side front panel, and only optionally on the front panel.

I don't know which one to follow! The bust point on this pattern is about 1-1/4" in from the princess seam on the front panel. In other words, the princess seam doesn't go through the bust point. The side panel also isn't very curved at the bust level. So it looks a bit more like the false princess seam example.

Here are a couple of fitting photos:



If you've done lots of FBA before, how would you FBA this pattern? Would you do a standard princess FBA on the side panel? Or would you do a FBA on the front panel that results in a small part on the front panel only, like in this Burda jacket:

-- Edited on 8/27/13 5:30 PM --

Longblades
Longblades
Ontario Canada
Member since 7/28/11
Posts: 212
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 8/27/13 12:34 PM

Is it McCalls 5525? Because you see I'm getting a different jacket when I google that number.

I am planning to make New Look 6570 which is reviewed here and looks very, very close. Maybe someone did the FBA already? Because I will have to as well.

Or I might make Vogue 8916 also reviewed here and lacks the small bustline dart but does have the similar side panel. I think.

In both of these the side panel reaches around to the back piece so that instead of one side seam there are two quasi pincess seams. I don't know if these are considered to be true princess seams or not.

I'll watch to see what answers you get as I will be into this soon, I hope.

ETA: Darn, I don't think anybody made the Vogue jacket at all and I don't think anybody did FBA on the New Look.

ETA: Oh, now I understand. You put the Burda sketch in because it shows the seams better?
-- Edited on 8/27/13 12:41 PM --
-- Edited on 8/27/13 1:26 PM --

piakdy
piakdy
Member since 8/6/11
Posts: 28
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to Longblades <<


Date: 8/27/13 3:40 PM

Yes, it's that McCall 5525. But the line drawing is a Burda jacket - not M5525. The line drawing is only to illustrate what would happen if I the non-princess FBA on the front panel instead the normal typical princess FBA on the side front panel.

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