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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Princess seams and narrow shoulders + gaping neckline ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Princess seams and narrow shoulders + gaping neckline
kairap
kairap
Intermediate
Member since 7/19/13
Posts: 3
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Date: 8/27/13 3:42 PM

Agh. I made the McCalls 6202 pattern and went so far as to make a wearable muslin. It seemed to fit perfectly but after wearing it for awhile noticed that the shoulder straps constantly slip off my shoulders. If I pull them to where they should sit approximately 1/2 - 3/4" from their current position I'm left with a gaping neckline.

As it has a centre seam I thought I could just do a tapered intake at this, but it'll then be off the grain and its (ahem) a wee bit tight on the bust. I'd cut to the smaller size as didn't want the ease and the final measurements of a size 10 almost matched my own measurements.

How on earth do I bring the shoulders in? I've seen narrow shoulder adjustments but they show rotating the dart into the waist dart and can't seem to find anything for princess seam. Is there something terribly obvious I'm missing?

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4527
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Date: 8/27/13 5:09 PM

Are you wanting to alter your finished garment or the pattern?
First I would make sure,it it's the shoulders that are too wide, or is the armscye too deep.
For a quick altertion to the finished garment, you could make a small pleat or 2 or at the shoulder seam, or slightly gather it with narrow elastic.
Otherwise you can take off the top part of the sleeve off and take 1/2 inch off the shoulder and taper it into the armscye.
You can also do that on the flat pattern.
Otherwise you could use can use the shoulders of a smaller size and use the size 10 for the rest.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Tizmehr
Tizmehr
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ON CANADA
Member since 2/21/11
Posts: 159
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Date: 8/28/13 10:04 AM

Could it be that it's a bit long in length from the shoulder to the bustline seam? It looks like it's got a crossover front. If there's too much length that would mean that there's room for it to slide off your shoulder.

kairap
kairap
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Member since 7/19/13
Posts: 3
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In reply to Tizmehr <<


Date: 8/28/13 12:29 PM

Hmm I wonder about the too much length between bustling and shoulder. I already took off 5/8" but maybe more is needed. I'll try a smaller size at the shoulders and work from there.

I'm new to altering patterns and this is my first proper attempt. It has shown me how important it is to wear the muslin first for awhile as I didn't pick this up when I first did it and proceeded to finish it!

kairap
kairap
Intermediate
Member since 7/19/13
Posts: 3
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Date: 8/28/13 12:31 PM

Bugger it's not even mccalls 6202. I'll have to find the pattern. It's essentially a princess seamed dress (beginning from the neckline not shoulder) with a centre seam too.

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