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How would you approach this?
lrstanfill
lrstanfill
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Kentucky USA
Member since 10/18/09
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Date: 8/27/13 5:25 PM

My first post!

I am planning a quilt based on this FootyWorks poster: http://m.pinterest.com/pin/247768416972772146/

I'm not sure the best approach.
I've been quilting about 5 years (machine piecing, EPP, machine applique, and a little bit of needleturn). My first thought was machine applique, but the last time I did large pieces with machine applique, the results were stiff and did not lie flat.

Any suggestions on the best approach?

Thanks!

Sharon1952
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Sharon1952  Friend of PR
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In reply to lrstanfill <<


Date: 8/27/13 8:10 PM

Your link looks like it is most easily done with Steam-A-Seam and then machine quilted, but not too densely. Will this be a wall quilt or a serviceable bed quilt? What size will it be?



-- Edited on 8/27/13 8:12 PM --

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Sewing: A creative mess is better than tidy idleness. ~Author Unknown

lrstanfill
lrstanfill
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Kentucky USA
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In reply to Sharon1952 <<


Date: 9/3/13 0:55 AM

I'm planning on a large lap quilt.

What I'm really stuck on is the red outline around the canon. Do I really need an entire layer for the outline, or is there a better way?
-- Edited on 9/3/13 1:00 AM --
-- Edited on 9/3/13 1:01 AM --

OBX
OBX
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In reply to lrstanfill <<


Date: 9/3/13 7:34 AM

You could do a wide satin stitch instead of using fabric. If you want to use fabric, you could use bias tape as it handles the curves well and you have the choice of width. Narrower widths handle tight curves better.

Cat n Bull
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Cat n Bull  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/3/13 8:38 AM

I just finished a quilt with some LARGE machine appliqued pieces on it, and I used elmer's washable school glue in a precision tip bottle to hold the edges then satin stitched it. I HATE stiff quilts, and this worked out great! The glue really holds well, you heat set it with a dry iron first. When the quilt is washed all the glue washes away.

For the outline on your cannon pieces, I'd make the quilt exactly like the picture. Red whole cloth background and white appliqued pieces on top. You don't need extra red for the outlines, you already have the red background.

When you are finished stitching the white down, if it is too stiff you can cut the red away from the back of the white pieces.
-- Edited on 9/3/13 8:40 AM --

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Cathryn

lrstanfill
lrstanfill
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Kentucky USA
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Posts: 42
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Date: 9/3/13 4:25 PM

Thanks everyone. I think I was making it harder than it needed to be. I definitely going to try the Elmer's school glue

lrstanfill
lrstanfill
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Date: 9/4/13 9:23 PM

Two more questions:
1) Best practice for transferring image for a 50x70 quilt? Will I just have to freehand it?
2) Any drawbacks to doing big pieces of applique with needle turn instead of a machine?

a.rose.sews
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In reply to lrstanfill <<
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Date: 9/4/13 9:36 PM

Well, I use the window to transfer designs. Tape the image to the window and tape the fabric over it. I like to use a General's chalk pencil. Not very high-tech, but works pretty good.

Here's another thought on the applique... Have you tried "reverse applique?" You work with 2 layers of fabric, slit the top fabric to reveal the fabric underneath, and needle=turn the raw edges. I'm working on a petrogliph quilt for my Dad using this method. Here's a picture... http://quiltedsunshine.blogspot.com/p/tessellating-birds-progress.html

Keep us posted on what you end up doing.

------
Annette -- Sewing Machine Mechanic
Bernina 230, Bernina 800DL serger, Kenmore (60 lbs), Singer Treaddle 1901, White serger, Mercury MO111 industrial, shell-stitch machine, plus several to fix and sell or use for parts.

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