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Twin needles on Bernina 1630
What adjustments can I make my knit hems flat?
0mega

0mega
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Date: 8/27/13 11:33 PM

I am trying to figure out if I can use a twin needle to make nice-looking hems on knit garments. I have never used a twin needle before. I am using my newly-purchased Bernina 1630. My fabric is light-weight viscose or rayon. So far the results look okay (no puckering or skipping) except that I am getting some "tunneling" (at least I think that's what it's called). If I had to guess what's going on, it looks like there is too much thread tension on the bottom, relative to the top thread tension. Increasing top thread tension helps a little, but not enough. It seems like a logical solution might be to fiddle with the tension screw on the bobbin case, but frankly, I am scared! Can someone tell me if it's worth trying to adjust the bottom thread tension (maybe if I can purchase a spare bobbin case), or are there other steps I should try first? Thanks folks!

Soolip
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Date: 8/27/13 11:49 PM

Stabilizer will solve this problem. It's not a machine-specific issue, and no need to adjust the bobbin tension.

nitsel
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Date: 8/28/13 0:30 AM

I have this machine (and love it!) and usually don't have any trouble using a double needle. Try holding the fabric "taut" as it goes under the needle. By this I mean pull the fabric (just a little) on each side to remove any "slack" it may have. This is side to side, left and right sides of the needle, not front & back or before & after. Does this make any sense at all? Also, decreasing your stitch length may help-fewer stitches per inch.
Hope you enjoy your new machine!

Soolip
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In reply to nitsel <<


Date: 8/28/13 0:47 AM

Quote: nitsel
Try holding the fabric "taut" as it goes under the needle. By this I mean pull the fabric (just a little) on each side to remove any "slack" it may have.

She's sewing hems on knit garments. This is not a good idea wavy, wavy, wavy.
DreinPA
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In reply to nitsel <<


Date: 8/28/13 7:54 AM

You want to decrease the needle tension not increase it.
Lower it one or two whole numbers.

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Don't confuse accessibility with ease; just because anybody can pick up a needle and thread doesn't mean sewing quality garments is easy.

nitsel
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Date: 8/28/13 9:40 AM

By holding the fabric taut sideways, not in front & back of the needle, you can keep the fabric from stretching too much as it's sewn. After the hem is pressed, it won't be wavy. I've done clothing alterations for years with lots of knit skirts, dresses, etc. I always used this method until I got a coverstitch machine--it works, for me at least. YMMV

craftysandy
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In reply to 0mega <<


Date: 8/28/13 10:16 AM

Knit hem tape at sewing workshop.com or read sew mama sew. Sew mama sew uses stitch witchery as a stabilizer. Ball needle and polyester thread!

cruzer2013
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In reply to 0mega <<
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Date: 8/28/13 10:20 AM

Might as well throw my two bits in here. There is a stabilizer called Heat Away, that works well. When you are done, just put your iron on it and it goes away. Or just loosen your bobbin tension and remember where it was set, so you have a spot to turn it back to.

goodworks1
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In reply to cruzer2013 <<


Date: 8/28/13 10:41 AM

Quote: cruzer2013
Or just loosen your bobbin tension and remember where it was set, so you have a spot to turn it back to.

I'd mark it with a fine-line permanent marker if I did this. 'Remembering' is not one of my personal strong points....

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kkkkaty
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In reply to DreinPA <<


Date: 8/28/13 10:54 AM

Quote: DreinPA
You want to decrease the needle tension not increase it.

Lower it one or two whole numbers.

This is correct, you need to lower the needle tension. get out some scraps and experiment.... try wooly nylon in the bobbin...

see last paragraph, item 3: Sandra Betzina Power Sewing

-- Edited on 8/28/13 10:56 AM --

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