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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Shirt collar+stand techniques

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Shirt collar+stand techniques
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/19/13
Posts: 299
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Date: 9/2/13 10:41 AM

Resuming shirt-making after a few years, I am dithering between two different collar+stand sewing techniques.

One is Lynn Cook's: sew the stand to the shirt first, then drop the (completed) collar in;

the other is that described AFAICS on all commercial patterns (vogue, butterick, burda) - to make up the completed collar and stand as one unit, then attach that to the shirt neck.

Which is easiest - less error prone?

Many thanks

SheBear0320
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SheBear0320  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/2/13 2:13 PM

I use the second technique -- assemble and then apply. I have used this technique forever and it has always worked regardless of fabric choice (even on spandex shirts for men's skating costumes).

My theory -- if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I can practically do these collars in my sleep now.

Having never tried the other technique, I can't say whether one is easier or less error prone than the other.


------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
27.5 yards sewn (as of 04/17/14)
20.125 yards purchased (as of 04/17/14)

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UNITED KINGDOM
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In reply to SheBear0320 <<


Date: 9/2/13 2:43 PM

Hi Sheila, thanks

I've just sewn a collar+stand using the first technique and despite making a card shape and following her directions exactly, it didn't work for me. The resultant stand, stuck out on both sides of the edges and I had to twiddle with the curves to make them sit back in nicely before sewing the collar in.

Also, when sewing the whole thing into the shirt, I missed several inches of seam on the underside and had to go over that again in the machine.

It's almost certainly me and not her : but she's done thousands of these and can knock them off without drawing breath.

Thank goodness I've gone off this shirt fabric and am now regarding it as a toile = make mistakes go-around. Next shirt I make, I'll try the other method (the only one I've ever used in the past).

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/2/13 10:45 PM

After years and years of sewing I have yet to get the shirt and stand to meet at CF. I have tried different methods and none have worked for me.
I always have a little bump where they meet.

------
Ada

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/3/13 10:55 AM

Cythia Guffey has a good technique for collar and stand that eliminates the bump. Can't remember what it is right now but she has booklets.
-- Edited on 9/3/13 10:56 AM --

sewsally
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Date: 9/3/13 10:56 AM


Also Margaret Islander's method is good too.


And David Coffins book on Shirtmaking.
-- Edited on 9/3/13 10:57 AM --

JKimes
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JKimes  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/3/13 1:17 PM

I prefer and teach David Coffin's method where you attach the stand to the shirt, then the collar to the stand. IMHO it is the best way to get a smooth line along the front edges up through the stand.
He details the method in his book "shirtmaking"

Juliette

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Juliette near Austin, TX
Bernina 830LE
Bernina 350PE
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SheBear0320
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Date: 9/3/13 1:35 PM

Hmmmmm -- I think I am going to have to try this other method and see how it works.

I make a lot of shirts in a year if I combine the personal and business projects.

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
27.5 yards sewn (as of 04/17/14)
20.125 yards purchased (as of 04/17/14)

AdaH
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In reply to JKimes <<
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Date: 9/3/13 11:42 PM

I will have to revisit David Coffin's book and check out his method. I bought the book shortly before I stopped making garments and turned to quilts. Now I am back to garment sewing and have lost some of the little tips and tricks of sewing.

------
Ada

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