SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
Bernina
Bernina

Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Shirt collar+stand techniques

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Shirt collar+stand techniques
Which is preferred?
Handshake
star
Handshake
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/19/13
Posts: 385
Skill: Advanced
Send Message

      



Date: 9/2/13 10:41 AM

Resuming shirt-making after a few years, I am dithering between two different collar+stand sewing techniques.

One is Lynn Cook's: sew the stand to the shirt first, then drop the (completed) collar in;

the other is that described AFAICS on all commercial patterns (vogue, butterick, burda) - to make up the completed collar and stand as one unit, then attach that to the shirt neck.

Which is easiest - less error prone?

Many thanks

SheBear0320
starstar
SheBear0320  Friend of PR
Manitoba Canada
Member since 4/8/08
Posts: 4473
Skill: Advanced
Send Message

      



In reply to Handshake <<


Date: 9/2/13 2:13 PM

I use the second technique -- assemble and then apply. I have used this technique forever and it has always worked regardless of fabric choice (even on spandex shirts for men's skating costumes).

My theory -- if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I can practically do these collars in my sleep now.

Having never tried the other technique, I can't say whether one is easier or less error prone than the other.


------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
2014 Stash Tally: 106.625 yds out/145.125 yds in (net +38.5 yds)

2015 Stash Busting:
20.625 yds sewn (as of 04/21/15)
20.0 yds purchased (as of 04/21/15)


Handshake
star
Handshake
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/19/13
Posts: 385
Skill: Advanced
Send Message

      



In reply to SheBear0320 <<


Date: 9/2/13 2:43 PM

Hi Sheila, thanks

I've just sewn a collar+stand using the first technique and despite making a card shape and following her directions exactly, it didn't work for me. The resultant stand, stuck out on both sides of the edges and I had to twiddle with the curves to make them sit back in nicely before sewing the collar in.

Also, when sewing the whole thing into the shirt, I missed several inches of seam on the underside and had to go over that again in the machine.

It's almost certainly me and not her : but she's done thousands of these and can knock them off without drawing breath.

Thank goodness I've gone off this shirt fabric and am now regarding it as a toile = make mistakes go-around. Next shirt I make, I'll try the other method (the only one I've ever used in the past).

AdaH
star
AdaH
Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2493
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



Date: 9/2/13 10:45 PM

After years and years of sewing I have yet to get the shirt and stand to meet at CF. I have tried different methods and none have worked for me.
I always have a little bump where they meet.

------
Ada

sewsally
star
sewsally  Friend of PR
Washington USA
Member since 8/18/02
Posts: 1373
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



Date: 9/3/13 10:55 AM

Cythia Guffey has a good technique for collar and stand that eliminates the bump. Can't remember what it is right now but she has booklets.
-- Edited on 9/3/13 10:56 AM --

sewsally
star
sewsally  Friend of PR
Washington USA
Member since 8/18/02
Posts: 1373
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



Date: 9/3/13 10:56 AM


Also Margaret Islander's method is good too.


And David Coffins book on Shirtmaking.
-- Edited on 9/3/13 10:57 AM --

JKimes
star
JKimes  Friend of PR
Member since 11/4/05
Posts: 615
Skill: Expert/Couture
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 9/3/13 1:17 PM

I prefer and teach David Coffin's method where you attach the stand to the shirt, then the collar to the stand. IMHO it is the best way to get a smooth line along the front edges up through the stand.
He details the method in his book "shirtmaking"

Juliette

------
Juliette near Austin, TX
Bernina 830LE
Bernina 350PE
Babylock Evolution
ElnaPro 905DCX
BabyLock Melody

SheBear0320
starstar
SheBear0320  Friend of PR
Manitoba Canada
Member since 4/8/08
Posts: 4473
Skill: Advanced
Send Message

      



Date: 9/3/13 1:35 PM

Hmmmmm -- I think I am going to have to try this other method and see how it works.

I make a lot of shirts in a year if I combine the personal and business projects.

------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
2014 Stash Tally: 106.625 yds out/145.125 yds in (net +38.5 yds)

2015 Stash Busting:
20.625 yds sewn (as of 04/21/15)
20.0 yds purchased (as of 04/21/15)


AdaH
star
AdaH
Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2493
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



In reply to JKimes <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 9/3/13 11:42 PM

I will have to revisit David Coffin's book and check out his method. I bought the book shortly before I stopped making garments and turned to quilts. Now I am back to garment sewing and have lost some of the little tips and tricks of sewing.

------
Ada

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> Shirt collar+stand techniques

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets

Class Details

Online Class
The Contemporary Couture Jacket
The Contemporary Couture Jacket

Class Details

Islander Sewing Systems The Ultimate Kinsale Cloak Pattern

Islander Sewing Systems The Ultimate Kinsale Cloak Pattern

Pattern Details
Christine Jonson Boyfriend Jacket and Shell

Christine Jonson Boyfriend Jacket and Shell

Pattern Details

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2015 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.