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Forum > Fitting Woes > Vogue 2900 - Shoulder Issues ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Vogue 2900 - Shoulder Issues
Fitting Issues
Sybariticminx
Sybariticminx
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Date: 9/3/13 1:00 AM

Flickr Photos

I completed Vogue 2900 and have attached five photos. I'm not an experienced sewer, so I have quite a few fit issues. I have many books now on how to correct fit. But a lot of times I don't know what to label what is wrong with it. I was hoping that you could look at the photos and tell me what the label is so I could look it up in the book. Though if you have a good link on how to fix it that would be much appreciated. I'd very much like to thank you in advance, I found all these issues rather overwhelming.

(1) The number one issue for me is the shoulders. As you can see they come inward very close to the neck and don't sit back closer to the arm. In two of the pictures I have pulled the shoulders forcibly back to illustrate. This is a problem that has cropped up on another pattern that I made, so I know its a fitting issue unique to me and not a pattern issue (especially since I saw many beautiful V2900s without this problem).

(2) I have some fabric in the lower back, is that a swayback adjustment?

(3) There is some tightness/dimple in the middle front of bust

(4) Perhaps hard to see but the armhole gapes in both the front and back.

Thanks,
Suzy

KathleenS
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In reply to Sybariticminx <<
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Date: 9/3/13 6:31 AM

I'm not an expert but I think you certainly need a full bust adjustment. I think that's contributing to the armhole gaping and the shoulder problems. It also just looks too tight at the bust.

I'm not sure about the back wrinkles. Can you get someone to pin them out and see what shape they are? You can probably take out all the excess in the waist seam.

Hope that helps a little.

Kathleen
-- Edited on 9/3/13 6:36 AM --

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 9/3/13 8:46 AM

I agree with Kathleen. I think an FBA is the first thing you should try. The lower back might need a small sway back adjustment. Start with the FBA and see what that does. Might help the upper back a bit too.

KathySews
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Date: 9/3/13 9:06 AM

First question, when you select your pattern, did you choose by your high bust measurement? That should help the shoulder fit. Right now the neck and shoulders are too big for you. Selecting size by high bust will require a full bust adjustment, but that is a little simpler than trying to get neck and shoulders fit.

fryman

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Date: 9/4/13 10:46 AM

The backview shows horizontal lines which is a give a way for snugness. Also, I strongly endorse making a tester, an old sheet works well, so you will be able to extend the shoulder to fit your measurements and avoid the center from folding together. Now I read where JTink wrote the same. Good Lunck

ryan's mom
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ryan's mom
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Date: 9/5/13 7:29 AM

My advice is to do a snug high bust measurement as well as Nancy's Zieman's front chest width measurement to properly assess your correct pattern size. I think you can drop down a size or two for the neck and shoulders.

Is this pattern multi-sized? That would make it easy. Cut a smaller size at neck and shoulders morphing to a larger size at the full bust.

Other things...

1. A full bust adjustment
2. Alter for swayback.
3. Can't really identify where your shoulder seam is falling. Is it too far back? Cut 1 1/2" shoulder seam allowances and adjust the placement as necessary. In addition, I'm seeing diagonal "strain" wrinkles from CF to shoulders. I do an FBA and see if they go away. If not, I'd adjust the shoulder seam at the shoulder/armhole tip to see if that wrinkle can be eliminated. Probably just the front armhole if you have a rounded forward shoulder.

If there is still armhole gape after doing an FBA, I'd just do an armhole dart. You could always transfer the armhole dart and make it a typical bust dart for future dresses. That's such a common problem. If you feel there's enough room at the full bust and there's still gape, it's more of a shaping issue, imo, require a dart.

Cut extra wide seam allowances to allow for tweaking too.

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Coverstitch: Janome CP1000. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

My blog: www.phatchickdesigns.blogspot.com

marymary86
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Date: 9/5/13 8:23 AM

You did a great job with the actual sewing. After you learn how to fit, you will have some amazing clothes!!

------
Mary


Nancy K
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In reply to Sybariticminx <<


Date: 9/5/13 4:33 PM

Your shoulder slope needs correcting, that's why your neckline is standing away from your body; you need an fba and yes, you need a sway back adjustment. After doing the last you may need to add below the waist so that the overall length is correct.
I don't know what size you are using but patterns are designed, for the most part for a B cup and even if you buy a pattern by your full bust measurement it will be too tight across the bust. Buy a pattern by the upper bust measurement and then make an fba. You don't need the larger size in the shoulders and neckline.
Looking at your pictures again I also think that you need to make a rounded back adjustment. This will add fabric at the upper back where you are round. This will get rid of what appears to be a wrinkle at your upper back.

-- Edited on 9/5/13 4:36 PM --

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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