Advanced Beginner Washington USA Member since 5/10/10 Posts: 461
Date: 9/4/13 7:24 PM
I'm sewing the Minoru, and I've decided to leave out the cuff elastic. I've seen on RTW jackets where the fashion fabric is folded to the inside (at the cuff) to meet the lining fabric so the lining fabric isn't visible (does that make sense??).
How would one achieve this? Lengthen the fashion fabric sleeve piece by the amount that will be folded to the inside? Then sew then lining to the fashion fabric right sides together?
1. Remove the sleeve hem allowance from the sleeve lining.
2. Insert the sleeve lining into the jacket sleeve.
3. Pin the sleeve lining to the jacket sleeve at the underarm seam.
4. Reach between the main lining and jacket and pull the sleeve and jacket lining wrong side out. The pin helps keep the sleeve from twisting.
5. This next part is kind of hard to explain and really just takes a couple of tries to get it right. You will orient the sleeve lining and jacket sleeve so that the right sides face. I find that as I pin, one sleeve is rotating clockwise while the other is rotating counterclockwise.
6. Stitch with a 3/8" seam.
7. When you pull the sleeves right side out, the jacket sleeve hem will be forced to the inside by the allowance you removed from the sleeve lining.
Does this make sense? =)
A blogger did a great picture tutorial on bagging a lining. This method to line the sleeves can be used whether you bag the lining or let it hang free. If I can find the link, I'll edit this post.
Edited to add:
The tutorial on which the above steps were based can be found in this tip. The only thing I did differently when I made a lined jacket earlier this year was to leave my 6" opening in a side seam instead of center back. I just used the tip again a few days ago on a hang-free lining a and it worked well.
Here is another good tutorial: Grainline -- Edited on 9/4/13 8:56 PM --
Woo hoo!! Thank you! That makes perfect sense! I am familiar with the awkwardness of step 5I once made my son a little lined dress coat & got the sleeve lining twisted my first trybut the lining & outer fabric were the same length. That was a real pain with those teeny tiny sleeves!
I feel renewed confidence! Thanks Lynnelle, for your step by step reply.
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Sewing Techniques and Tips >> Lined Jacket Sleeves