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is Zugeben german for "design ease"?
andye
andye  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/6/13 6:03 PM

I'm trying to draft a (very close fitting) pattern based on the Müller und Sohn method. I have only the drafts and some chapters to work from.

The first step says
Quote:

1. Grundlage ist ein Kleidergrundschnitt Größe 40 ohne Zugaben (Ow 92 cm, Tw 74 cm, Hu 100 cm)


Or is more akin to seam allowance?

-- Edited on 9/7/13 3:53 PM --

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Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

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In reply to andye

Date: 9/6/13 6:53 PM

I did the translator for you and this is what it said.

The basis is a basic cut dresses size 40 without adding (Ow 92 cm, Tw 74 cm, 100 cm Hu)

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annemie
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Date: 9/6/13 7:04 PM

I would translate it like this: "The basis is a basic pattern size 40 without added allowances". I would guess the allowances mean seam allowances, and keep in mind that the German size 40 is an American Size 12 or 14, but definitely not an American size 40, so check the measurements on the pattern.
andye
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Subject: is Zugaben german for "design ease"? Date: 9/6/13 7:53 PM

Ah.

One of the interesting things about Lucia Mors de Castro Patternmaking in Fashion step by step is that it's trilingual--english, french and german, and can serve as a Rosetta stone for translating other dressmaking books, such as the one I'm attempting to decode. It's also nice for catching typos... :/

The word Zugabe (and I really need to pay attention to how I spell things) corresponds to "allowance" or (in french) "ajout". In german-style patternmaking systems, one adds ease to various measurements (bust, waist, bodice length, collar, back width) corresponding to the type of garment one wishes to make-- fitted dress, jacket, coat. ..

And from the context, one first drafts a foundation draft with zero additional ease, and derives the pattern for this particular garment from that base. The example shown is size 40.

So, onwards....

-- Edited on 9/6/13 8:05 PM --

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

annemie
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Date: 9/7/13 6:43 AM

The way you describe it I think they are talking about ease, rather than seam allowance (Nahtzugabe). You want to develop a new pattern from this very basic pattern, right?
zora
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Subject: is Zugeben german for design ease? Date: 9/7/13 7:52 AM

Zugabe on it's own doesn't say anything about whether design ease (Bequemlichkeitszugabe) or seam allowance (Nahtzugabe) is meant.
I don't work with Müller & Sohn so it's difficult to guess what's meant here.
andye
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In reply to annemie

Date: 9/7/13 12:31 PM

Yes. Essentially, I have a book of instructions on how to make a custom foundation pattern, and I have another book of instructions that tells me how to modify those foundation patterns into patterns for particular garments.

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Vintage Joan
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In reply to zora

Date: 9/7/13 1:40 PM

Thank you for teaching me how to say these things in German.

design ease -- Bequemlichkeitszugabe

seam allowance -- Nahtzugabe

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andye
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Subject: is Zugeben german for design ease? Date: 9/7/13 3:00 PM

Strictly speaking, Bequemlichkeitszugabe refers to the ease built in to the garment to make it comfortable and wearable, (from Bequemlichkeit--convenience, comfort, snugness), while design ease can refer to any additional ease built into the final garment that affects the shape of the garment.

But, of course, I was asking about Bequemlichkeitszugabe.
-- Edited on 9/7/13 3:01 PM --
-- Edited on 9/7/13 3:08 PM --

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Quickie
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In reply to andye

Date: 9/21/13 2:57 PM

Quote: andye
Ah.



One of the interesting things about Lucia Mors de Castro Patternmaking in Fashion step by step is that it's trilingual--english, french and german, and can serve as a Rosetta stone for translating other dressmaking books, such as the one I'm attempting to decode. It's also nice for catching typos... :/



The word Zugabe (and I really need to pay attention to how I spell things) corresponds to "allowance" or (in french) "ajout". In german-style patternmaking systems, one adds ease to various measurements (bust, waist, bodice length, collar, back width) corresponding to the type of garment one wishes to make-- fitted dress, jacket, coat. ..



And from the context, one first drafts a foundation draft with zero additional ease, and derives the pattern for this particular garment from that base. The example shown is size 40.



So, onwards....


-- Edited on 9/6/13 8:05 PM --

I use this patterndrafting system of Müller (Rundschau) and I can tell you that Andye is very right with her explanation.
I can tell you that in this system you have blockpatterns for various types of garments. So you choose which block you are going to use for your particular garment.
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