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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Finishing Neckline with Slippery Binding ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Finishing Neckline with Slippery Binding
Why does my binding keep rippling?
sport
sport
Member since 8/29/05
Posts: 216
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Date: 9/7/13 5:48 PM

Can anyone help? I'm trying to finish the neckline of my silk blouse with self-made matching binding and, no matter what I do, I get ripples. The neckline has a slight v at the centre front, and the ruffles are sewn wrong side to right side of garment around 2/3 of the front.

I didn't bother sewing a V in the bias strip since the V in in the garment is so slight, I didn't think it would matter. Could that be the problem?

I tried various methods of applying binding, both single- and double- fold to no avail. I tried starching the fabric which helped slightly but I still get the ripples.
-- Edited on 9/7/13 5:55 PM --

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/7/13 7:29 PM

Could you post a picture? What weave of silk are you using? It could be you're pulling the bias too tight, or it could be that the bias strip wasn't exactly on the bias. Or maybe the weave (twill? dupioni? shantung?) just isn't right for bias strips.

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Debbie

CSM--Carla
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CSM--Carla  Friend of PR
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In reply to sport <<


Date: 9/7/13 9:10 PM

If I'm imagining your problem correctly, you might try changing to a new needle.

This worked for me recently.

sport
sport
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In reply to Debbie Lancaster <<


Date: 9/8/13 6:29 AM

I've already taken it out so can't post a picture, unless I try again and the same thing happens.

I'm not sure the fabric is actually silk, but it has the same feel. It's probably a polyester, but it is very slippery and lightweight.

I have a ready to wear top made with similar fabric, and the binding they have over the ruffles is quite narrow. Maybe I could try a narrower binding and wrap it around tighter? I've been doing a 3/8 inch binding but usually end up having space inside the fold...

sport
sport
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In reply to CSM--Carla <<


Date: 9/8/13 6:30 AM

Good idea. I'll try changing the needle and see what happens. Thanks!

biochemistress

biochemistress  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/8/13 7:30 AM

Do you have a bias binding foot? I've bound many slippery fabrics with self binding with this foot. If it only ripples at the 'v', tuck it back and tack a few stitches in it. If it ripples everywhere I agree with the above suggestions - new needle, look at how tightly you're holding the strip as it goes through, is it truly on the bias, thin binding (I think my strips are 1" wide before going through the binder).

ConnieBJ
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Date: 9/8/13 5:54 PM

Stupid question- are you using bias binding or straight grain?

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Connie Bontje

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Janie Viers
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Date: 9/9/13 6:28 PM

Are you using a faux chennel or simple bias binding? I like faux channel - wich is 6 times the final width, folded in half, sewn with a 1/4 inch seam, allowance trimmed and then folded to the back and hand stitched. The fabric must be thin for this to work on a silky fabric.

If you are doing a true bias with a technique like regular bias tape, you would pin, then steam only the part of the tape you are stitching, then stitch right sides together on the 1st fold, trim seam and gently fold to back with a steam iron. Then steam to wrong side and hand stitch or stitch in ditch. True bias is always best. if you are using a stretch maybe you can do a strip in the direction of the stretch, but I prefer bias even then! I do a lot o fstitch in ditch, but prefer hand stitching on reg. clothing = not t-shirts, though!

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JanieV

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