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Forum > Fitting Woes > gaping necklines on v-neck bias bodice ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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gaping necklines on v-neck bias bodice
how to adjust without ruining the chevron effect
lalalauren
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lalalauren
Advanced Beginner
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/1/12
Posts: 43
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Date: 9/10/13 9:10 AM

Hi lovely Pattern Reviewers!

I am in need of some advice. I am working on V8789, which has quite a few reviews here on PR and is rated highly, however, I haven't come across anyone who has mentioned how they might have altered for a gaping neckline.

Here's the pattern:



Because I am going for a chevron effect with my fabric, I am not sure how to adjust the pattern to take a good inch out of the neckline at the front and back without distorting the grainline.

The way I would usually adjust for gaping neckline is make a tuck from the neckline to the armscye and true the grain, but I can't seem to figure out how to do that with this pattern, whether I transfer the fullness to the waist dart or the armscye.

If I make a tuck, either my centre back seam isn't straight or my V-neck isn't running at a 45 degree angle, thus ruining the chevron effect.

Here are some pics of my bodice muslin. It is a straight size 12 with no adjustments. The gaping isn't really obvious, but you can see that the back is large on me and I know from sewing other vogue size 12s this is a recurring problem.




At this point I have no idea what do apart from take the centre back seam in, but I definitely can't do that at the front.

Any pattern altering tips would be so helpful! Thanks!
-- Edited on 9/10/13 9:16 AM --
-- Edited on 9/10/13 9:17 AM --

------
beaglesbakinganddressmaking.wordpress.com

kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Utah USA
Member since 12/7/05
Posts: 2659
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Date: 9/10/13 11:13 AM

would it help if you sewed the shoulder in a slightly smaller size, or took it in (sewed a slightly larger seam) a bit at the neckline at least? From here it looks like that might take some fullness out of the neckline.

------
Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Utah USA
Member since 12/7/05
Posts: 2659
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Date: 9/10/13 11:15 AM

also, it looks like the shoulder is forward at the neckline. Maybe adjust it more towards the back (add a little at the front seam line, and take the same amount out at the back, pivoting from the shoulder?)

------
Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

lalalauren
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lalalauren
Advanced Beginner
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/1/12
Posts: 43
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Date: 9/10/13 4:48 PM

Thanks for your tips! I'll give both of those a go. I've never adjusted for a forward shoulder, and I'm always keen to learn new techniques. Thank you!

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beaglesbakinganddressmaking.wordpress.com

simplystitches
simplystitches
New York USA
Member since 2/12/06
Posts: 1577
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Date: 9/10/13 10:19 PM

First you need to fix the back length. It's too long and bunching up and that's what's causing all the wrinkling and it's probably what's causing some of the gaping at the neckline. Pin a wedge out widest at cb to nothing at the ss until the back hangs straight. You may need to try different lengths to get the right amount. Try pinning out at least 1" to start. I can't tell if the front is too long as the picture is cut off above the waist. It could be that the entire bodice is too long, not just the back. If the entire bodice is too long then you simply need to shorten the same amount all the way around.

Remember that the very full skirt will also pull down the bodice.
Once you get the length issue fixed I personally would attach some sort of skirt to see how much it pulls the bodice down. I realize it's a very full, not needed to be fitted skirt, but it really will add a lot of weight to the dress.

Debbie

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
Colorado USA
Member since 6/22/04
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In reply to lalalauren <<


Date: 9/11/13 5:58 PM

I agree that the top is not fitting right in the back so that needs to be addressed. Also, it is pretty important to attach the skirt to really see how the top is fitting overall. However, a good fit doesn't necessarily eliminate a v-neckline's gaping.

With this kind of neckline there is often easing along the straight edge since not too many of us have shapes that are suited to what is essentially a flat piece of fabric from bust point to neckline. This article at Threads talks about easing the v-neck and bias cuts. Interesting Charles Kleibacker article.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

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