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Forum > Fitting Woes > My Pivot & Slide experience ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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My Pivot & Slide experience
Lori Githens
Lori Githens  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Iowa USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 103
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Date: 9/10/13 6:57 PM

I've come back into sewing this summer, from a lengthy hiatus. My children are all grown, no hint of grandkids yet, and so no one to sew for. Just me. It was either learn to fit myself or start quilting. But I've never gotten the hang of fitting. Plus, I've lost a bit of weight this year, so fitting is even more of a challenge (or a new blank slate) I've gotten all the books and studied them. Signed up for a craftsy class. I have all of Peggy Sager's dvd's, have been to one of her one day seminars, and never miss her webcasts. Still no light bulb moment.

I decided to give Pivot & Slide a shot. I measured my front width, had my husband measure...aha, he got a smaller measurement. I started with a 14, increased the bust 2 inches, and after the trial sleeve was snug I increased the pattern another inch using P&S. (had to do some creative cutting to cut another pair of sleeves!)

Here is my completed wearable muslin. (the pants are cropped LH Cruise pants) It seems to be a pretty good fit. The only thing I feel I need to tweak is it's a little tight across the back. (there's a little pulling when I pull my arms forward)

Just wanted to share my fitting journey. Any criticism would be highly appreciated. Does it look like I have the fit right? Should I continue to fine tune the fit in the back? (I know I need to work on my posture, but it is what it is.)


http://www.flickr.com/photos/13585918@N07/9718223005/in/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13585918@N07/9718222897/in/photostream/

Sorry, not sure how to post photos, feel free to head to my flickr to take a look if I can't figure it out.
-- Edited on 9/10/13 7:01 PM --
-- Edited on 9/10/13 7:04 PM --

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Hello my name is Lori and I have SMAD

my latest love is Pfrancie, my Pfaff Performance 5.0 (but can't put my Bernina 153QE away !)

Tina Lou
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Tina Lou  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Massachusetts USA
Member since 6/14/11
Posts: 61
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Date: 9/10/13 8:23 PM

Love your shirt - well done!!! I've recently returned to garment sewing too, and have found sleeves to be the biggest challenge to fit. From your pictures, I don't think that the back looks too snug side to side, and your checks look perfectly fine both vertically and horizontally. It's possible that the restricted arm motion is due to a too-low armhole. If you raised the armhole you might get better range of motion. The shirt is certainly wearable, and most likely fits better than most RTW .... keep going!!
-- Edited on 9/10/13 8:27 PM --

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Tina

Lori Githens
Lori Githens  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Iowa USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 103
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Date: 9/10/13 8:43 PM

Oh, that reminds me, I also lowered the shoulder seam by 3/8", which means I did lower the armhole. When I went to the Peggy Sagers seminar, I had her drape my classic blouse on me, and all she did to fine tune that pattern was lower the shoulder. So I figured I should do that on this one. BTW, not sure I mentioned it, but this pattern is Vogue 8772. My goal is to be able to sew any pattern and not be tied to any particular line.

Thanks for looking!

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Hello my name is Lori and I have SMAD

my latest love is Pfrancie, my Pfaff Performance 5.0 (but can't put my Bernina 153QE away !)

KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
Advanced
Michigan USA
Member since 10/1/06
Posts: 3913
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Date: 9/10/13 8:56 PM

Very good fit. The fun part is sewing, so you are on your way. I agree with you saying you want to be able to use any pattern line. It seems like the changes needed go across all lines with a little tweeking. Like the shoulder adjustment.

On the back of your blouse, maybe check the back waist length. That could get rid of the fold of fabric at your waist. The other option is to let out the darts a bit. The front looks perfect.

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
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In reply to Lori Githens <<


Date: 9/10/13 8:59 PM

Pretty darn good I'd say! It looks like the back armhole is a little too wide near your armpit and is causing wrinkling.

Also, when you moved your shoulder forward, did you remove the amount from the front sleeve seam and add it to the back? If you moved your shoulder seam forward 5/8" and added 5/8" to the back shoulder seam, you need to trim off the front curve near the underarm sleeve seam 5/8" and add this amount to the back. This flattens out the back armhole curve in the sleeve and shortens it in front. I see a "bubble" at the top of your sleeve on your left arm. which tells me the curve of the sleeves needs to move forward a little more, thereby making the back longer.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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Lori Githens
Lori Githens  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Iowa USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 103
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Date: 9/10/13 9:23 PM

Thanks for all these things to check into!

I didn't move the shoulder forward, I just dropped the front and back shoulder seams down 3/8 (the shoulder angle )and lowered the underarm seam 3/8 as well. Didn't do the P&S version of this adjustment, I just did what Peggy Sagers had me do. I'm not sure if I actually needed to, but since I needed to with her line, figured I'd go ahead and do it on the Vogue.

I'm feeling the P&S approach is best for me at this time. It's easy for me to get started and understand what I'm doing. Hopefully after I've done it a bit, it'll help me figure out other methods of fitting as well. ie, I could have lowered my shoulder using P&S, but I understand using my french curve to lower the shoulder angle, so that's what I did.

This is my first time actually sharing a picture of something I'm working on, though I've been a member of PR for years!

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Hello my name is Lori and I have SMAD

my latest love is Pfrancie, my Pfaff Performance 5.0 (but can't put my Bernina 153QE away !)

marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3140
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Date: 9/11/13 12:14 PM

You did a great job! I love the way your blouse fits and it flatters you. Nicely done!

You've inspired me to give P&S another look.

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Mary


AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Iowa USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2483
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Date: 9/11/13 2:08 PM

Your blouse looks very nice. I love the color and the fit is very good.
I started out using the pivot and slide technique when I first learned to fit over 20 years ago. It is a good place to start.

It has been my experience that you can not take the adjustments you make on a Silhouette pattern and transfer it to another pattern company. Independent pattern companies often use a blocks that is very different from the standard big 4 pattern companies. Silhouette patterns are much slimmer thru the hips than the big 4 and the shoulder seams sit farther back on the shoulder. Anyway that has been my experience.

If you like the fit of the Silhouette blouse, lay the pattern on the next blouse pattern and see what area's are the same and which are different. That will give you a good idea of what changes you will have to make.

Unfortunately there isn't a magic formula to sewing garments that fit.

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Ada

Elaine Dougan
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Elaine Dougan  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
British Columbia CANADA
Member since 1/24/07
Posts: 507
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Date: 9/11/13 2:52 PM

I like the pivot and slide method. You might like to consider adjusting the back of your garments for a rounded back. I have that problem and it affects the fit of your sleeves as well as the back. I think you have done a really good job with your blouse.

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Elaine

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