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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pants fitting issue with Colette Clovers ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pants fitting issue with Colette Clovers
amiriaaa
amiriaaa
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NEW ZEALAND
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Date: 9/11/13 11:24 PM

So I have been attempting to make the perfect pants using Colette's Clover pattern for a very long time now. I first made a muslin in a straight size 2 but I found that I had extra fabric in the lower tummy and crotch area. I've searched all over the internet and in various sewing books to try and find the problem but I've never really found a solution. I've made NUMEROUS muslins since my first one but nothing really worked and I think I got to the point where I had altered the pattern too much which made it harder to diagnose the problem.
So I've decided to revisit my first muslin and go from there. The waist is too tight and in subsequent muslins I graded it up a couple of sizes. I'm also pretty happy with the fit around the bum and thighs. My only problem is that damn crotch area! I've attached some pictures, I would be so grateful for any advice!
Pants 01 photo DSCF1881-1.jpg
Pants 02 photo DSCF1879-1.jpg
-- Edited on 9/11/13 11:26 PM --

marec
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Date: 9/12/13 0:04 AM

Your fit looks good so far. Remember you have to sit down in these pants :-) I do see a lot of extra fabric in the front, and some downward angled folds. Maybe read this link and see if it may help:clovers and me

I made some Clovers and did a number of muslins-my problem areas were on the back side.

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simplystitches
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Date: 9/12/13 1:01 AM

They look a bit tight in the upper thigh. That's part of what's causing the diagonal pulls from the crotch. If you can release the sa on the upper thigh. Once you get the fit in the upper thigh looser the crotch will drop and the diagonal pulls will go away.

From the looks of it once the thighs are looser and the crotch drops it will then be too long. If it is pin out a wedge above the crotch, widest at cf tapering to nothing at the ss.

Debbie

lca
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Date: 9/12/13 3:33 PM


The front crotch is too long - see those "frowns"? Is this stretch fabric?
-- Edited on 9/12/13 3:40 PM --

amiriaaa
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Date: 9/12/13 6:32 PM

Thanks for the replies everyone!
So many people have had problems with Clovers and I've just about given up but I am desperate for a nice pair of pants! I also should have stated in my original post that I am wanting them to be quite slim-fitting.
I did wonder if my thighs were the issue because I think my thighs are a bit fuller in comparison to my abdomen.
Yes the pants have a slight amount of stretch. My concern about the front crotch is I feel that if I shorten it I will end up with an unattractive cameltoe as it already feels quite snug around the crotch seam (I think this is demonstrated in the first photo looking at the CF). I guess my problem is that I seem to have extra fabric where my legs meet my abdomen?
Anyway I am definitely not an expert in this area so I really do appreciate all advice!

simplystitches
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In reply to amiriaaa <<
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Date: 9/12/13 9:10 PM

Quote:
guess my problem is that I seem to have extra fabric where my legs meet my abdomen


Quote:
quite slim-fitting. I did wonder if my thighs were the issue because I think my thighs are a bit fuller in comparison to my abdomen


As I said above if you release the upper front thigh it will release the fabric that's bunched up above the crotch. Then the crotch won't feel so tight.

The difference is slim fitting and a bit too tight. Right now you're at the too tight imho. It may not take much extra to go from one to the other. Could be as little as 1/4-1/2" added to the front thigh to make a difference. They will still be slim fitting.

Debbie

amiriaaa
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 9/13/13 2:02 AM

Thankyou so much, I'll give this a go. Another question - do I add width to the side seams or the inseams? Or both?

simplystitches
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In reply to amiriaaa <<


Date: 9/13/13 9:45 AM

I'd add to the ss first. If the fit in the back is good adding to the inseam will mess it up!

If you're willing to sacrifice the pants posted above you can slash through the middle of the thigh and let it spread. That will give an idea of how much needs to be added. Otherwise add an inch to the front ss at the upper thigh and blend it in up and down. It will be a bit of a trial and error to find the right amount. Just use a long basting stitch and I'd sew them so that the seams are to the outside. That way you can rip and repin the fit where needed.

Debbie

Loopygolfer
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Date: 9/24/13 7:32 AM

Peggy Sagers has a video on her web site about pants fitting issues and what the wrinkles tell you (http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_04_29_2013.htm). I had similar issues and found that I needed to make my back crotch a bit longer - similar to the large upper thigh adjustment. I think a lot of pants fitting problems are due to the fact that we can measure circumference and length, but depth is a much harder thing to account for.

I actually stuck a ruler between my legs and measured the depth of my body - then I knew roughly how much depth I needed from where the centre back and centre front begin their curves to the crotch point. That was an eye opener, as the patterns I've been using didn't have enough.

I also posted info on fitting sources on my blog at http://madforsewingandfashion.wordpress.com/.

Hope some of this info is useful.
Melanie
-- Edited on 9/24/13 7:33 AM --

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