SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
Bernina
Bernina

Forum > Patterns and Notions > Using straight of grain instead of bias? ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Using straight of grain instead of bias?
Once again ...
RoseFromThule
star
RoseFromThule
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 454
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 9/13/13 5:15 AM

A acquaintance of mine wants to sew her own dress for an upcoming event. As far as I know, she's not a seamstress, but will have help from someone who took up sewing recently.
Among all my Burda issues, she decided on this model from 12/2009 :
One-shoulder dress

However, the dress is mostly cut on the bias and, since she plans to use a drapey fabric as well, maybe charmeuse, it might be a recipe for disaster.

Do you think the design *requires* bias cut ? In any case I'll tell them to do a muslin, but I'd like to know whether we should look for another pattern right now or is it worth trying ?

I know that converting bias to straight of grain is tricky at best, but what made me assume we could get away with this is that the back lines reminded me of this dress I made last summer : Knotted dress
In my version I added a center back seam to shape the back, and the skirt was on straight of grain. My acquaintance is petite and very slender, she wouldn't need as much shaping as I did.

TIA !

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

lakaribane
starstar
lakaribane
Haiti
Member since 7/23/07
Posts: 3196
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Body Type:
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 9/13/13 8:18 AM

First, the line drawing:



I don't think it *needs* to be on the bias. The skirt might lose a bit of draping but that bodice would be hell on the bias anyway.

If the fabric is very soft, I think it can work.

I second the idea of muslining, in any case. Just to be safe...

------
Morphology: Petite at 1m53 (5'), Burda size altered 19 or altered 38, Big 4 size 10 or 12 depending on ease;
Alterations: Petite, Narrow Shoulders, Slim Arms, Narrow waist, Increase Back Crotch Depth. Considering: Forward Neck/Rounded Upper Back, Slight Swayback;
Style: Feminine, Colorful, Fitted, Clean lines;
Favorite Garment type: Dress;
Favorite Colors: Purple, Navy, Brown, Shocking Pink, Coral, Aqua;
Favorite Fibers, Weaves or Patterns: Cotton, Linen, Cotton Silk blend, Seersucker, Swiss Dot, Lawn, Denim, Stripes, Chevron, Window pane Plaid, Bias;
Blog : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Pinterest : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

RoseFromThule
star
RoseFromThule
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 454
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Send Message

                                                     1 Replies



Date: 9/13/13 9:08 AM

Thanks for the line drawing, I could get Explorer to copy the url of the picture itself.

The draping is on straight of grain, I think, but you're right : the bodice should be fairly fitted. There are darts under the draping and the back bodice is only kind-of held up by the same drapey "strap" than in the front, so must be snug enough to avoid drooping.

I will stress the importance of the muslin and probably also give them some adequate fabric for that too.


------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

BrendaR
BrendaR
Virginia USA
Member since 6/13/13
Posts: 696
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



In reply to RoseFromThule

Date: 9/13/13 9:48 AM

You'll probably have to enlarge and lengthen it to make up for the lack of stretch if the fabric is cut on the straight. Is charmeuse one of the recommended choices?
RoseFromThule
star
RoseFromThule
FRANCE
Member since 3/3/10
Posts: 454
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 9/13/13 10:10 AM

Burda used silk crepe (crepe de Chine). Fabric choices are limited around here so charmeuse may be the only adequate alternative.

------
Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

AnneM
starstar
AnneM  Friend of PR
Contest Committee
Member since 7/30/02
Posts: 7469
Skill: Intermediate
Send Message

      



Date: 9/13/13 12:45 PM

I agree w/ BrendaR - they will have to size up if they don't cut the dress on the bias. Also, there isn't a back sketch - I don't know what type of closure it has, but a hand-picked zipper would work nicely with the charmeuse, and probably be easy for her to do.

When working with Charmeuse and particularly bias, I like to mark the stitching lines on the fabric before I move it. I also like to cut the fabric out in the single layer. These steps might make it easier for her when handling the slippery fabric.

------
With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.

Kwaaked
Kwaaked
Member since 9/25/12
Posts: 1382
Skill: Beginner
Send Message

                                                     1 Replies



Date: 9/13/13 1:42 PM

Also tell them about starch or the gelatin trick if it's poly or they plan on washing it in water which will help with the fabric choice, too.

Vicsguy
star
Vicsguy
Ohio USA
Member since 5/17/09
Posts: 224
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Send Message

                                                     1 Replies



In reply to Kwaaked

Date: 9/13/13 2:06 PM

Quote: Kwaaked
Also tell them about starch or the gelatin trick if it's poly or they plan on washing it in water which will help with the fabric choice, too.




What is the gelatin trick?
Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 9857
Skill: Advanced
Body Type:
Send Message

      



In reply to Vicsguy

Date: 9/13/13 3:19 PM

It's described in this Threads article, but I believe our own Lena Merrin here at pr published it first.

------
Elona

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Patterns and Notions >> Using straight of grain instead of bias?

Merchants on PR

Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover


Made In Australia
Deals!

Home Sewing Depot


Home Dec Sewing Supplies
Deals!

Patterns from the Past


vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Nature's Fabrics


Natural & Organic Fabrics
Deals!

Elliott Berman Textiles


Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Web site

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Fit the Tee to a T
Fit the Tee to a T

Class Details

Online Class
Altering Jackets
Altering Jackets

Class Details

Butterick 5432

photo
by: jjhallum

Review
Sewing Workshop Ann's Cardigan & Tank

Sewing Workshop Ann's Cardigan & Tank

Pattern Details
Sew Chic Beatrice Pocket Dress Pattern (ln1310)

Sew Chic Beatrice Pocket Dress Pattern (ln1310)

Pattern Details
Simplicity 1644

photo
by: egreen42

Review

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2016 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.