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Forum > Patterns and Notions > Using straight of grain instead of bias? ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Using straight of grain instead of bias?
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RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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Date: 9/13/13 5:15 AM

A acquaintance of mine wants to sew her own dress for an upcoming event. As far as I know, she's not a seamstress, but will have help from someone who took up sewing recently.
Among all my Burda issues, she decided on this model from 12/2009 :
One-shoulder dress

However, the dress is mostly cut on the bias and, since she plans to use a drapey fabric as well, maybe charmeuse, it might be a recipe for disaster.

Do you think the design *requires* bias cut ? In any case I'll tell them to do a muslin, but I'd like to know whether we should look for another pattern right now or is it worth trying ?

I know that converting bias to straight of grain is tricky at best, but what made me assume we could get away with this is that the back lines reminded me of this dress I made last summer : Knotted dress
In my version I added a center back seam to shape the back, and the skirt was on straight of grain. My acquaintance is petite and very slender, she wouldn't need as much shaping as I did.

TIA !

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lakaribane
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lakaribane
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Date: 9/13/13 8:18 AM

First, the line drawing:



I don't think it *needs* to be on the bias. The skirt might lose a bit of draping but that bodice would be hell on the bias anyway.

If the fabric is very soft, I think it can work.

I second the idea of muslining, in any case. Just to be safe...

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Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
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RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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Date: 9/13/13 9:08 AM

Thanks for the line drawing, I could get Explorer to copy the url of the picture itself.

The draping is on straight of grain, I think, but you're right : the bodice should be fairly fitted. There are darts under the draping and the back bodice is only kind-of held up by the same drapey "strap" than in the front, so must be snug enough to avoid drooping.

I will stress the importance of the muslin and probably also give them some adequate fabric for that too.


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BrendaR
BrendaR
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In reply to RoseFromThule <<


Date: 9/13/13 9:48 AM

You'll probably have to enlarge and lengthen it to make up for the lack of stretch if the fabric is cut on the straight. Is charmeuse one of the recommended choices?

RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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Date: 9/13/13 10:10 AM

Burda used silk crepe (crepe de Chine). Fabric choices are limited around here so charmeuse may be the only adequate alternative.

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AnneM
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AnneM  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/13/13 12:45 PM

I agree w/ BrendaR - they will have to size up if they don't cut the dress on the bias. Also, there isn't a back sketch - I don't know what type of closure it has, but a hand-picked zipper would work nicely with the charmeuse, and probably be easy for her to do.

When working with Charmeuse and particularly bias, I like to mark the stitching lines on the fabric before I move it. I also like to cut the fabric out in the single layer. These steps might make it easier for her when handling the slippery fabric.

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Kwaaked
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Date: 9/13/13 1:42 PM

Also tell them about starch or the gelatin trick if it's poly or they plan on washing it in water which will help with the fabric choice, too.

Vicsguy
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Vicsguy
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In reply to Kwaaked <<


Date: 9/13/13 2:06 PM

Quote: Kwaaked
Also tell them about starch or the gelatin trick if it's poly or they plan on washing it in water which will help with the fabric choice, too.




What is the gelatin trick?
Elona
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In reply to Vicsguy <<


Date: 9/13/13 3:19 PM

It's described in this Threads article, but I believe our own Lena Merrin here at pr published it first.

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