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Forum > Fabrics and more... > Opposing Slub Direction in Jacket and Dress? ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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Opposing Slub Direction in Jacket and Dress?
Longblades
Longblades
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Date: 9/13/13 12:21 PM

Not sure where to put this question. Sheath dress in fake shantung (actually, it's drapery fabric) has horizontal slubs. Complimentary but not made to match jacket fabric (actually, it's upholstery fabric) would have vertical slubs if I railroad it, horizontal if I don't. I can do either. My first thought was to railroad the jacket but that was before I bought, and cut out, the dress fabric. Then I thought it would look wrong if the slubs were opposing each other. Now I'm asking for opinions. Do you think the slubs must all go in the same direction? The dress slubs will not be as noticeable as the chanel type jacket fabric slubs, probably. Except to me of course.

goodworks1
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Date: 9/13/13 1:16 PM

No. They can go any direction you want them to. Even diagonally/bias.

But I'd put the dress on and drape the jacket fabric over yourself and decide what looks best to YOU.

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stirwatersblue
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Date: 9/13/13 4:32 PM

I think I would have to see them together. How slubby are they? How different are the colors? I think it might look odd to use THE SAME fabric, if it's highly slubbed, at different angles... but for "complementary," it's hard to say without seeing them. A blogger I read is making a fancy 18th C. gown from some slubby faux silk; I was thinking with all the pieces involved it would be almost impossible for them all to be oriented the same way, all the time, but it really does look like she's been pretty consistent throughout:

http://starlightmasque.livejournal.com/

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~Gem in the prairie

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Date: 9/13/13 5:28 PM

I think I would look very carefully by draping it and placing it in sunlight where the color difference would really show up with different
nap directions. The safest would be to keep it the same, but try draping with bias chevrons, etc. I once gave up on bias pockets on satin because of color differences on crepe backed satin.

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Janome serger 634D, Brother PC6000, Singer 500A, Kenmore Mini-Ultra, vintage Bernina 600, White Rotary treadle, New Homestead A VS treadle

Longblades
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Date: 9/13/13 7:02 PM

Yep, that's what I will do. Finish the dress then see how the jacket stuff looks in both directions in the outside light. I probably would not have twigged to doing this in both natural and outside light. Thanks.

The dress is very dark grey. The jacket will be a white background with flowers in black and two shades of grey. To my mind the slub is fairly pronounced in the white, flowered fabric, not so much in the dress fabric.

I'm just busting to get the jacket made as I fell in love with the fabric a year ago and only recently decided what to do with it.

stirwatersblue
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Date: 9/13/13 7:19 PM

In that case, I'm wondering if the best bet is to go ahead and use the proper grain for the dress, and then use the most sensible direction for the flowers in the jacket. Does that make sense? The other factors--grain/drape and print/pattern--may be more important than a subtle thing like slubs.

What patterns are you using? It sounds like a really lovely project!!

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~Gem in the prairie

Longblades
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Date: 9/13/13 9:18 PM

I have already started the dress and I put it on the proper length of fabric with the slubs going horizontally, as shantung does, I believe. If it all turns out I'll do a review on both. Right now I'm sort of combining two jacket patterns

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