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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pants fitting for large quads ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pants fitting for large quads
Adding extra at the inseam
shermarama
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shermarama
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Date: 9/14/13 8:37 AM

I mostly make my own jeans, from a self-drafted pattern which has worked well in the past. I'm looking to make another pair now, but something's gone astray around the thighs.

The last-but-one pair I made were a good fit generally, but weren't quite right on the thigh. I found this Colette pants fitting cheat sheet which described the problem very well - feeling tight across the top of the thigh, with wrinkles at the inner thigh, near the crotch. It diagnosed large quads, which I have (and more so than when I made the last-but-two pair of jeans) and suggested adding width at the inseam of the pants front, close to the crotch and tapering down to the knee.

The last pair of jeans I made included this alteration, adding maybe 1/4 - 3/8" per side, at the front only - the problem wasn't a big one, and I was using a similar denim to the last-but-one pair, with a little bit of stretch in it. I tapered the extra out towards the knee, and did a bit of tapering towards the crotch, but not the full amount - I think that would have made too sharp a curve there.

That pair of jeans now has a saggy arse. It feels like there's spare fabric across the top back of the thigh, a problem I've never had with that pattern before - not enough to not wear them, but it's irritating. So, did I do something wrong with that alteration? How can I do it again but get it right?

Options one seems to be to take as much again out of the back as I put in the front. But that seems to defeat the purpose of adding more space. Option two is trying to get rid of the extra by the crotch, but the extra is at its peak only about 3-4" below it, so I'm not sure how. Anyone got any ideas?

SandiMacD
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Date: 9/15/13 5:42 AM

Can you sacrifice a worn pair or whip up a muslin knee length?
I would treat it like a slash alteration in a blouse.
Put on the muslin from your existing too tight pattern.
Now slash gradually down the center front thigh to see just how long a cut you need to make to relieve the wrinkle. Measure how wide the slash is across the center. Transfer that information to your personal pattern draft. That should put the extra width just where you need it instead of in the crotch area.
-- Edited on 9/15/13 5:47 AM --

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Karla Kizer
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Date: 9/20/13 6:40 AM

I use the SandiMacD method, which is essentially making a dart-shaped addition to the front of the pants. The widest part of the "dart" is near the top of the thigh, and the ends taper to nothing at waist level and just above the knee. It will change the angle of the CF seam slightly, adding a little more width in the pants front, at pubic bone level. Don't panic, though; it works, and we need that little bit of extra across the front to make a smooth transition from abdomen to full front thigh.

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chgh
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SWEDEN
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Date: 9/29/13 12:25 PM

This is the best method I know, that addresses the front thigh muscle-problem for both men and wimen. Sound so much better being athlethic than big I have practiced this alteration sucessfully up to an inch per leg for wimen, that didn't even know they needed it. Pants fit so much better, also for myself because I travel by bike all the time. The extra room is much needed. Its a very common problem.

http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2008/07/29/pants-pattern-alteration/athletic thigh muscle alteration
-- Edited on 9/29/13 12:27 PM --

chgh
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SWEDEN
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Date: 9/29/13 12:31 PM

I had no problem combining this alteration with alterations for X-legs, tight thigs or knockknees. You just have to do them one by one and maybe draw a new, complete pattern piece when all the alterations are finished.

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