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Making your muslin your new pattern
Is this one way to do it?
Kimbercrow
Kimbercrow
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California USA
Member since 3/30/13
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Date: 9/16/13 5:20 PM

Finally I am at the point of taking my muddled simplicity 2700 from muslin back to pattern to try fashion fabric.

But i have tweeked to much I think it would be easier to make the muslin the new pattern, since I cut down from sz 20 to 14 (the pattern instructions told me to cut that big for the inseam/crotch... ), and even took out another 1/2" from the hip curve as my hips are straight like a boys.

So I think the way to go about this is trace along the sewing line into the HUGE seam allowance 5/8" and then cut the new edge. Then take the trousers apart, interface the leg pieces and anything else too tweeked, and use that as the pattern. The pockets and waistband are ok, legs are soooo not.

And if I wanted to raise the waist to give me more length in the croctch area, I guess the place on the pattern to do this is just below where the pocket opening ends so that is raised a bit and I am not left with a waist band that is 2" tall (unless that if fashionable now).

Thanks,

Kimber

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/16/13 8:26 PM

Yep, you can use the muslin as the pattern. Just make sure you are cutting those seam allowances accurately. You might think about leaving the side seams at 1". Every fabric you use will be enough different that the sides might have to be change.

You can always lay the muslin over the paper pattern and make the alterations. Which ever way you feel most comfortable with.

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Ada

KathySews
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KathySews
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Date: 9/16/13 9:22 PM

I think you could trace the sewing lines of the muslin then add whatever seam allowance you want. You might want to press the muslin if that does not remove the stitching lines. I do this sometimes because I get frustrated trying to make muslin changes on the paper

SewLibra
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SewLibra  Friend of PR
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In reply to Kimbercrow <<
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Date: 9/17/13 1:04 AM

Pants are so hard to fit for most figures, so I feel your pain. I have a large waist, slim hips and legs, so commercial pants patterns drive me crazy and never fit right or feel right. The only way I could get pants to fit is by taking apart RTW and making my own pattern on freezer paper. I have a recent tutorial on this if you are interested.

In reply to your idea of raising the waist to adjust the crotch, I have to say I tried that in the past and it did not work for me. (Actually I shortened the area because the crotch was too long.) If the waist feels good, do not mess with it. Look at your RTW pants that fit you in the crotch. Turn them inside out and you will see the front crotch is way shorter than the back crotch. This is key to the comfort and fit of women's pants, unless you have certain figure issues. You may need to completely overhaul the crotch lengths. Once you have your muslin fitting properly, make a pattern from the muslin onto freezer paper or other paper suggested by PR members. I make my seam allowance 1/2" because that rides along the right side of my presser foot and is just enough room to shave off a little on the serger. If I use a knit or heavy woven, I adjust cutting of the fabric smaller or larger, accordingly. Good luck!
-- Edited on 9/17/13 1:48 PM --

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SewLibra
Brother SB4138, Bernina 1008, Brother 1034D, Janome Harmony 9102D

Kimbercrow
Kimbercrow
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In reply to SewLibra <<


Date: 9/17/13 6:59 PM

Would love to see your tutorial! I have a pair of shorts which I have to replace the zipper on, so I could take part of the crotch which works for me and see if I can adjust the crotch on 2700 muslin which is still not fitting well in the front crotch.

I am tall so most RTW items fit me ok in some aspects and not at all in others, but I need something to wear....

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 9/17/13 7:39 PM

Miss Fairchild steps in
I've done this and many times too. Mark the seam allowances, before you cut them out, with a magic marker. Run it right down the stitches. Do the same with the darts. If you put grainlines on your muslin ahead of time, that's great too!

Then cut on the stitching line, right down that magic markered line. As to the darts. remove the stitching, and put dots on the magic markered lines every 1" or so, until you get to the dart point, and make that one dot.

Then interface the pieces, if you prefer, and lay the pattern on your fabric. Make a note on the muslin part, vertically, parallel to a seam line, to add seam allowances. (or get one of those seam allowance ruler thingies).

Easy peasy. This is why I keep my muslins!

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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KathySews
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KathySews
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 9/17/13 7:50 PM

Brilliant! I like the stabilizing the muslin with interface.

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