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how to best cut out a large repeat pattern
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rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 9/16/13 6:18 PM

I'm staring at a silk fabric purchase this evening and would love some advice on how to best cut it out. It's going to be the lining for a boucle wool jacket I'm currently making.

The fabric has a very large motif pattern running through it. I want it to flow as naturally through the jacket. I've not worked with such a large repeat before and am a bit uncertain about cutting all out.

Here's a link to the fabric. The circles are as big as the palm of my hand. I've currently tried to centre the circles and floral decoration more in the centre of each pattern piece.

Any advice out there? According to the shop it's an armani design so I want to do it justice!

diane s
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Date: 9/16/13 8:00 PM

I don't have alot of specifics, and you probably already know this, but keep the circles away from the bust point.

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 9/16/13 8:05 PM

Preview your pieces by placing the pattern pieces on top of the fabric to see where the pattern is going to land. There's a great short tutorial in a book called Vintage Sewing where the author uses vintage tablecoths, etc., and previews them by placing the pattern pieces on top. I think the larger print should be on the back side, going across the back.

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tinflutterby
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Date: 9/17/13 3:41 AM

When the pattern placement is important I make a complete pattern (left and right) from tissue so I can see the design placement . Then cut in a single layer right side up.

KathleenS
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Date: 9/17/13 4:36 AM

Seeing as it's the lining you don't have to worry about a lot of things that would be considerations if it was the outer fabric. The main thing is that it look "nice" (whatever that is) and that the print flows around the inside of the jacket and isn't dreadfully chopped up. (i.e. try not to put the seams dead through every motif!) For the flow, you may be able to just carefully imitate how it flows on the uncut fabric piece. Note that that requires effort because you'll need to allow for seam allowances - it's unlikely you can just lay the pieces next to each other and think the job's done. I would mark the seam allowances on all the pattern pieces before doing the layout. Then I'd start by placing the centre back piece, as this will be the most visible when the jacket is on a hanger etc. And from there work round piece by piece to the front. Yes, cutting single layer. The sleeves don't matter (they could be plain white if necessary), and the front is much less important than the back.

My inclination would actually be not to put the circles exactly in the middle of each piece. That might leave you with circle, disproportionately big white space, circle, big white space etc. I would choose my favourite part of the print and put that across the back pieces, and work from there.

Kathleen
-- Edited on 9/17/13 4:38 AM --

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Date: 9/17/13 5:20 AM

I do what tinflutterby does and cut single layers of fabric with whole pattern pieces.

As a lining I wouldn't be that concerned about it, but I would play with the layout and figure out which one I liked and that looked the best. Looking at it, if I had to break the print, I would do it on the circle rather then the other design.

beauturbo
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Date: 9/17/13 11:29 AM

Since it's in the lining of the jacket, and when jacket is not on you, the place in the lining you might notice first is about in the middle of the jacket, if you want the lining motif to look more scattered and "natural" and more random on there, I would cut it out and not worry about it too much, but still just not place that very largest round motif smack dab in the centered back point of the back jacket lining. And really put it, somewhere not centered and off to a side a bit, as that might look a bit more random.

Janie Viers
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Date: 9/17/13 1:53 PM

I second Katherine's idea. Make the lining layout similar to what the fabric would look like as a whole. That way when the jack is viewed with the lining visible, it wil batch the fabric flow of the original. If you are going to make a top out of it, too, I would match the lining to the top.

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Date: 9/18/13 8:36 PM

I agree with Katherine's idea too. "My inclination would actually be not to put the circles exactly in the middle of each piece."
It will not look natural with the circles centered on each piece.

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Tina
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rmusic1
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Date: 10/5/13 6:44 PM

well, two evenings of work later I got it all cut out, and today I've sewn it together. Its taken a lot of time but am pleased with the result. Thanks for the advice about cutting out as a single layer.

If you are curious, here's what it looks like now.





I've matched the front as much as possible and tried to copy the layout of the pattern on the fabric across the back.

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