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Adding a full lining to a mostly unlined pattern
Burda 9458, laminated cotton raincoat
Vandoels
Vandoels
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Date: 9/18/13 12:25 PM

I just finished tracing my newest project-a girls laminated cotton raincoat. I've been sitting on this Russian doll fabric for a long time and it is up in the queue so to speak.

So the pockets are lined and the hood is lined. I was hoping to line the entire coat with either flannel or quilting cotton. It just needs a little something else to beef up the warmth-nothing substantial. It is also about the design element I want...to have a contrasting very small scale polka pattern on the interior of the coat.

Concerns: I don't want to weigh down the coat and stitches with something too heavy, I want to turn up the sleeves to get a peek a boo of the lining fabric

Questions: how should I go about lining the coat? Use the regular pattern pieces? I made the burda maternity coat with a full satin lining, but that had the lining instructions built in to the pattern.

Thoughts?

Burda Kids 9458

utahliz
utahliz
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Date: 9/18/13 1:28 PM

Use the front, back and sleeve patterns to make pattern pieces for the lining. You'll need to subtract from the front and back pieces where there is a facing (remember to add seam allowances). You will also subtract for hem allowances but add for the 'jump hem' at the bottom of the body and sleeves--extra length that forms that small pleat. You will also want to create a pleat at the center back for wearing ease--add an inch width at center back, which gets pleated out during construction and stitched down at the neck, hem, and (often) the waist.

Does that help? If not, can you get a hold of Connie Long's book, Easy Guide to Sewing Linings? Or post again, and we'll get you more detail.....

I wouldn't recommend flannel for a lining, since it'll make the inside of the raincoat stick to clothing. Quilting cotton or broadcloth would be a better choice.

Liz

Vandoels
Vandoels
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Date: 9/18/13 2:35 PM

Thanks, Liz. The fabric I have in mind from my stash is quilting cotton and quite lightweight.

Yes I recall doing an ease pleat for my own burda coat. I think I can figure that out, though with a kids coat, I'm not too nit-picky ;)

So are you suggestion I bag the lining or sew the lining and facing right sides together? The latter takes much more work and requires a lot of hand sewing

Sorry if I'm asking questions that don't make sense. I'm very good at following patterns and embellishing here and there, but for some reason my mind goes blank here hahaha

ConnieBJ
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Date: 9/18/13 3:37 PM

Why don't you enter - or sew along with - the Lined Jacket Contest that starts on Oct 1. Following along with it may answer some questions you have. And it would be the perfect place to ask any more questions you have along the way. And who knows- you may have the coat done by the end of the month to enter!

-- Edited on 9/18/13 3:38 PM --

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Vandoels
Vandoels
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Date: 9/19/13 0:16 AM

So I just used the regular pattern pieces-with modifications-to cut out a lining. I added some sleeve ease and plenty of space in the CB for ease pleats (3).

Questions:
I cut everything out including the back facing, but I think I only need one of those, right?

Do I sew the entire coat minus all hems and then sew the entire lining minus hems?

At this point the buttonholes and buttons will not be complete, correct?

Best way to attach the coat and lining? I'd like less hand work, if possible. My last coat took incredible patience and I'm not up for that nearing my due date!!

Thanks so much!

utahliz
utahliz
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Date: 9/19/13 4:55 PM

If you cut out the lining using the exact same pattern pieces for the front and back as the shell of the raincoat, you will need to use the facing pieces you've cut out of lining to get the lining to fit into the shell. Normally what I do is trace off a copy of each pattern piece that has a facing, remove the area where the facing is, and add seam allowances.

In my opinion, the easiest way to insert the lining (assuming the coat has both front and back facings of fashion fabric) is to attach the lining to the front and back facings, then stitch the lining/facing assembly to the rest of the jacket, right sides together. You can still bag the lining by leaving a whole in the center back seam and/or the sleeve seam, as you usually do. I just think that it's easier to attach the facings to the lining first, rather than stitch the facings to the coat followed by stitching the lining to the facings.

Liz

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Date: 9/19/13 6:31 PM

I like to do as utahliz does, attach the facings to the lining and sew it all in at once. FWIW, my preferred method in this instance would have been to flat line it, however, that requires some cutting differences that must be done from the get go, no back tracking. Good luck. It sounds positively adorable.

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Vandoels
Vandoels
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Date: 9/19/13 8:41 PM

Great advice!

Yes--too late to go back now and at $16.50/yard there's no second chance for this one ;)

Vandoels
Vandoels
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Date: 9/19/13 11:40 PM

Great advice!

Yes--too late to go back now and at $16.50/yard there's no second chance for this one ;)

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