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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Annoying sleeves - Esme top ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Annoying sleeves - Esme top
Bias cut sleeves a problem?
DaisyGrubber

DaisyGrubber
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 11/20/07
Posts: 31
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Date: 9/22/13 7:02 AM

I've made an Esme top and want to make another, as it's a useful and pretty top. However the first one has problems with the sleeves in wear. The cuff falls just above the elbow, and I find that it starts to rub and feel constricting when I've had it on for a while.

I hated it so much that I cut new sleeves for the first top an inch and a quarter longer, and made the cuff a little wider. It's still a bit of a problem though, albeit less so. The sleeve seems to move upwards in wear.

Should I just add more length to the sleeve and more width to the cuff? I also wondered if it was to do with the sleeve being cut on the bias, for which I am unsure of the reason. Could this be making the sleeve behave in an unhelpful way?

I want to get it right for top #2 because I have some very lovely and expensive fabric for it!

Quickie
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Quickie
NETHERLANDS
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Date: 9/22/13 7:24 AM

I understand that the pattern itself provides for the cuffs being above the elbows. I think than that it's good to make it so that they stay there, but wide enough to avoid nuisance. I see that the sleeves are a bit puffy end that tends for them to falling as far as they can. That is the conflict. I think that you could make an inside straight extra sleeve out of thin coton batiste or a lining fabric, that is fixed to the cuff.In this way you can force the sleeves in the position where you want them

TGWGWS
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Date: 9/23/13 2:09 AM

Quickie, that's a great idea!

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tgwgws

DaisyGrubber

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In reply to Quickie <<


Date: 9/23/13 3:45 AM

I'm not really sure how that would fix it. It would stop the cuff moving downwards, but that's not the problem - the problem is them moving upwards.

nopes
nopes
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In reply to DaisyGrubber <<


Date: 9/23/13 8:07 PM

I think the suggestion of having the sleeves above the elbow would help because it's probably your elbow that's making them ride up in the first place. I have rtw 3/4 length sleeve shirts that also ride up, and have to occasionally be tugged back into place, because flexing my elbow slowly eases the fabric upwards -- as in, every time I bend my elbow, it tugs the sleeve up a little bit. So, if the sleeve is ending before your elbow, you'll likely eliminate the issue entirely.

DaisyGrubber

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In reply to nopes <<


Date: 9/24/13 2:54 AM

Well, on me, the sleeves already do end above the elbow (or did before I recut new ones), and I think the shortness was part of the problem.

Having worn my first version of this blouse for a day again, I think the problem is that because the sleeves are cut on the bias, and because I have fairly fat arms, as I move, the fabric stretches widthways and contracts lengthways. Because the cuff is also a bit tight, that becomes really uncomfortable. Having put slightly longer sleeves and looser cuffs on, it is a lot better. I still have to tug the cuffs down now and then but they're not uncomfortable. They now naturally fall just below the elbow and ride up to just above it, rather than naturally falling just above it and then trying to ride up even higher.

I'm a bit wary of doing anything radical like cutting the sleeves on the straight grain, without doing another practice version and wearing it for a day, which I can't face, so I might just do version #2 the same. It's not perfect, but it's ok.

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