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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Drag lines from hip up to bust point

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Drag lines from hip up to bust point
Why is this fitting issue so often seen?
rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
Australia
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Date: 9/23/13 4:31 AM

Hi, I'm just curious about this. I so often see pics in reviews with drag lines from hip up to bust point. Many of the women don't even look large busted.

I always have to do an 1/2" FBA and occasionally get a drag line even though I have rotated the dart out to the side seam if working with a knit. I fix it by ripping the side seam and shortening the front side seam, so that I have redistributed some fullness at the bustline. I suppose I mean shortening the front side seam without adding a dart. Drag line disapears.

I'm just curious to know if anyone knows why you would get the drag line if the bust alteration is ok? Or if you are only small busted?



Sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Pfaff 7570 x 2, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to rag doll

Date: 9/23/13 8:15 AM

I used to have this problem when I used my sloper to draft tops. What I surmised is that my bust mound across was fuller than from the bust point inward toward my body (think of a peach smooshed on a wall). The drag lines were right where the vertical dart was. So I'd go in, make the dart, rotate the fullness out and go from there. Or I'd make a diagonal/French dart coming off the side seam, which I really like now.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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AdaH
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AdaH
Iowa USA
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Date: 9/23/13 9:57 AM

Sometimes it is caused by the wrong shoulder slope. If you pinch the outer edge of the should it will "sometimes" disappear.

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Ada

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
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In reply to rag doll
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Date: 9/23/13 7:44 PM

It is a balance issue - the front needs to be made longer at mid-armscye level.

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Custom clothier and pattern designer. www.iconicpatterns.com

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to Miss Fairchild

Date: 9/23/13 8:26 PM

Yes I agree, I love the french darts. I think they are much more flattering.

Lena, that's interesting. I actually shorten across the chest on both front and back which shortens the armcye, if I don't do this alteration I get little "wings" that look like they should be sewn into a dart....although I very rarely get the vertical drags anyway

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Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Pfaff 7570 x 2, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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Date: 9/23/13 10:27 PM

I think that the shape and location of the bust has a lot to do with this. French darts are a good fix.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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In reply to rag doll

Date: 9/24/13 5:23 AM

Quote: rag doll
Yes I agree, I love the french darts. I think they are much more flattering.



Lena, that's interesting. I actually shorten across the chest on both front and back which shortens the armcye, if I don't do this alteration I get little "wings" that look like they should be sewn into a dart....although I very rarely get the vertical drags anyway

Maybe they should be sewn into a dart?Back ones can be transfered into the center back seam or shoulder and front ones added to the bust dart? Or if they are due to the sloping shoulder, maybe just take the excess in at the shoulder point?

------
Custom clothier and pattern designer. www.iconicpatterns.com

blue mooney
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blue mooney
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In reply to Lena Merrin

Date: 9/24/13 11:43 AM

Quote: Lena Merrin
It is a balance issue - the front needs to be made longer at mid-armscye level.

Lena, I can visualize this solving the problem. Thank you! If you lengthen at mid-armscye, is there a corresponding change that needs to be done to the sleeve?

------
--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
other artwork blogged here: http://robynjorde.com/blog/

Marilly
Marilly
Oregon USA
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In reply to Lena Merrin

Date: 9/24/13 2:26 PM

I'm wondering..is it something akin to this? If Lena comes back I hope she can verify it:
Armhole balance

Shel
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