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New to fitting, please help!
Bodice fitting issues.
KrisisOD
KrisisOD
Member since 7/5/12
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Date: 9/23/13 7:52 PM

I made a muslin for the Princess Daisy dress I'm attempting to make in time for Halloween.

Someone please help me figure out what to do to fix it. I lifted the neckline up, it was originally lower, I guess that's what makes all the extra fabric there?

I also cut it out as a 16, as I was borderline 14, but was afraid it might be too small... figured that bigger would be better than smaller, and if it was too big I could always recut.

Here's the damage:










-- Edited on 9/23/13 7:56 PM --

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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In reply to KrisisOD <<
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Date: 9/23/13 7:59 PM

what does the design look like? Does it have a cowl? You need an FBA and a hanful of other adjustments, or even better a better base to start with :)
-- Edited on 9/23/13 7:59 PM --

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KrisisOD
KrisisOD
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Date: 9/23/13 8:07 PM

This is the pattern I'm using the cinderella dress.

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to KrisisOD <<
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Date: 9/23/13 8:44 PM

Hi, the neckline certainly looks like a cowl.

How did you decide what size to cut? I would go back and measure my upper chest and go by that measurement to select the size. The pic looks as if the top is too big for your upper chest area and too small in the full bust. If you use the upper chest measurement and then adjust for your full bust you may get a better fit through shoulders and chest. Once you have that size say, 12 or 14 then you will need to see what waist and hip you measure up to. say you are a 16 waist you can blend the pattern out to a 16 in that area. As far as the full bust I think just by looking at the pic you would need to do a full bust adjustment.

As Lena says, if you get the sizing closer we can then take another look and see what else needs to be altered.

Don't stress, there's lots of ladies here who have great fitting knowledge to guide you through if you send more pics.

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

KathySews
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KathySews
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Date: 9/23/13 8:45 PM

I am trying to figure out what is going on at the neckline. If the neckline feels too big go down a size. It looks like there is a lot of fabric there.

Next, you do need an fba, regardless of the size you use. If your cup size is larger than a B, it is a necessity. If you have never done one, there is lots of information. Just google fba or full bust adjustment.

Next the bust darts. They should end at least 1 inch from your bust point. The front darts appear to go over your bust points.

Try these changes and show us the results.

KrisisOD
KrisisOD
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Date: 10/11/13 10:12 AM

This is the third attempt, I think I'm finally almost there, this is a cross post from Artisan Square.


Okay I attempted at FBA with a smaller size... I used a 14, when I think I should have just stuck with a 16... I don't know. The sleeves are too tight, and it looks like I need a bit more of the FBA. Although, as a side note, a lot of the wrinkles disappear with a little bit of pull on the bottom hem, so I think once I add the skirt some of the wrinkles will disappear, even if I didn't change anything (which I will be.) I'm getting nervous I won't have the time to finish this before Halloween now though.

rag doll
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Date: 10/22/13 5:10 AM

Hi, the neckline looks completely different to the first pics you posted. It doesn't look like you have just gone from a 16 to a 14.

Did you use the same pattern?

IMHO (except for the neckline) the 16 looks better on you. Not so tight.

In one of your pics on the recent post the side seam is pulling to the front which would suggest that the front is too small and is "pinching" fabric from the back making horizontal folds across the back making it appear too tight.

I am by no means a fit expert but I would cut the size that best matches your upper chest measurement with 1 inch seam allowances at side seams. I would increase the FBA by about 1/2". Just as a precaution I would also compare your actual waist measurement to the measurements on the pattern envelope. You may need to blend out to a bigger size at the waist. Only then would I take the seam allowances out to 1 ". This would give you fitting flexibility.

HTH
Sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

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