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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Just how do you cut out stretch jersey fabric? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Just how do you cut out stretch jersey fabric?
LDT2011
LDT2011
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 11/18/11
Posts: 637
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Date: 9/24/13 4:57 AM

I am confused how do you cut a stretch fabric accurately without it....erm...stretching out of shape?

------
'The purpose of most fashion is to be ostentatiously non-functional.'

Datcat23
Datcat23
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 7/17/13
Posts: 235
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Date: 9/24/13 5:32 AM

It seems like it would be problematic, but really stretch fabrics are a lot easier to deal with than you would believe.

While knits have stretch, they aren't constantly under tension. When you lay a knit fabric flat, it will naturally fall into its "recovery" position, i.e.: the state it is when its not stretched. The key to cutting out a knit fabric, is to not place any tension on the fabric. Find somewhere to cut out that is flat, and won't have parts of the fabric hanging down. Don't cut on carpet, as the knit will stick and be slightly stretched. When you pin your pattern to the fabric, have the fabric as flat as you can, and then take care to only smooth the pattern rather than pushing at the fabric. When cutting try to avoid pulling the fabric as you cut, as this can give you wobbly edges.

If you are uncertain ..... get some scraps and practice. That is the best way to become proficient.

------
the barefoot seamstress ..... smelling vaguely of lavender and mothballs, and desperately craving chocolate.
www.castley.net/datcat

AnneM
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AnneM  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MA USA
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Date: 9/24/13 6:54 AM

A couple additional tips:

- don't let the fabric hang off of your cutting table, or it's weight will stretch the part you are cutting out.

- for particularly stretchy fabrics, like an acetate slinky, it has been suggested to lay the fabric flat and let it sit overnight before cutting. That allows the fabric to relax. I don't know how essential this is, just passing it on.

- I like to use rotary cutters and weights, rather than pins and scissors. But I prefer that for wovens as well.

------
With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.

Red Dragon
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Red Dragon
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/4/08
Posts: 611
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Date: 9/24/13 7:51 AM

With knits I use more pins to hold the pattern piece on firmly. Another hint is to make sure you have you hand flat firmly holding the pattern piece and fabric down while you cut around it so it doesn't move or stretch. Just move your hand around lifting and putting down as you go.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/24/13 8:50 AM

All of the above. Personally I use a rotary cutter and a mat. Instead of pins I use weights , these are fishing line sinkers and mine are teardrop in shape with a flat bottom. Any weights will do though. In the past I have even used tins from the food pantry.!

Sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Catina
Catina
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Date: 9/24/13 9:10 AM

I work in the fashion industry, so alot of times I find myself incorporating "factory" methods for home sewing for better efficiency.

When we are cutting, especially knit or delicate fabrics, we put a layer of paper down first, then our fabric on top, then our pattern. We cut through ALL the layers. This way the "underlay" paper gives a stable foundation and makes cutting as easy as cutting paper!

In this particular youtube video, I have the underlay paper (I used brown paper), a layer of chiffon, and another layer of brown paper that I traced the pattern on to. You do not have to do the top layer of paper and trace your pattern.... you can just simply lay your pattern on top of the fabric and pin it. I just personally like the top layer because I find it even easier (we call it a marker).

Commercial cutting Techniques by Catina Ferraine

------
Creatively Yours,
Catina Ferraine

www.CatinaFerraine.com
www.RawEdgeDevelopment.com
www.FashionForwardDevelopment.com

idahodogs
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idahodogs
Advanced Beginner
ID USA
Member since 4/22/08
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Date: 9/24/13 10:20 AM

I've done this more with shifty wovens than knits, but often I just starch the heck out of it and let it dry flat.

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OH USA
Member since 5/28/11
Posts: 2225
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In reply to LDT2011 <<
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Date: 9/24/13 10:28 AM

I gave up trying to use scissors. I use a rotary cutter (sharp blade) and a mat. I try to keep it flat or at least all the yardage up on the table. I try to buy a little extra and if I have enough I may cut it down into several smaller pieces to work with-that depends on the pattern of course. It is annoying to cut!

marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
GA USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 2588
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In reply to Catina <<
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Date: 9/24/13 11:02 AM

slightly off topic but I started watching your princess seams video and it's wonderful. You're a great teacher. I'm only 5 or 6 minutes in and I've already learned so much. I love the way you frequently stop to show and explain exactly what's going on. I've sewn many princess seams but never approached "notch to notch" - that's so easy to see form your video. I'm whacking myself on the side of the head wondering how I could have missed something so obvious.

I hope you produce more videos ...

------
Mary


Catina
Catina
Expert/Couture
Member since 10/6/11
Posts: 35
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In reply to marymary86 <<
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Date: 9/24/13 12:11 PM

Thank you Marymary86! I will be doing more videos and happy to take requests. In turn the more "likes" I get, the more my motivation will be fueled! lol

------
Creatively Yours,
Catina Ferraine

www.CatinaFerraine.com
www.RawEdgeDevelopment.com
www.FashionForwardDevelopment.com

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