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New Look 6049 fitting help
diagonal lines from side seam to butt ... what does it mean???
jenniferisnice
jenniferisnice
Advanced Beginner
Georgia USA
Member since 1/10/13
Posts: 19
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Date: 9/27/13 9:06 PM

Sorry I don't have a photo to share, but here goes nothin' ...

I made up the New Look 6049 shift dress in a size 8, and it fits well for the most part. However, in the back of the dress, there are baggy diagonal lines going from the side seams starting around my waist and going to the bottom of my butt. It's not tight anywhere in the dress, not even in the bust or arms. The side seams aren't curving toward the front, they are perfectly straight. Every shift dress I've ever bought or made has had this issue and honestly it doesn't bother me that much. But I would like to know why I am getting these baggy lines. If it's something easy to fix, I might as well do it.

Again, sorry for no photo. I don't have anyone to take one for me right now and my selfies aren't really illustrating the issue.

Thanks!

simplystitches
simplystitches
Intermediate
Member since 2/12/06
Posts: 1663
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Date: 9/27/13 9:21 PM

Without pics and going by your word that the ss are straight and they're baggy diagonal folds I'm going to suggest that there may be too much length in the cb seam. Is the hem level front to back?

You could try pinning out a wedge at roughly the cb waist tapering to nothing at the ss. Start at 1/4" (total wedge 1/2") and see if that helps.

Debbie

Red Dragon
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Red Dragon
Intermediate
Australia
Member since 2/4/08
Posts: 745
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In reply to jenniferisnice <<


Date: 9/27/13 9:29 PM

From the description, it sounds like you may need a swayback adjustment. Don't panic, it just means you have a lot of curve in your lower back so the drop from, say your bra band to backside is shorter than in front. Basically, you need to adjust the pattern to remove some of the fabric between waist and hip. There are a couple of methods; for this type of dress I use a fisheye dart in the pattern piece (not the fabric).
Have a look at buzzybeesworld's blog where she explains what it is and the quick method of adjusting. See if this looks like your problem.
A pic would make it much easier to diagnose, as I may be totally wrong (and biased because I have a really exaggerated back curve). And others have different methods to adjust too. HTH

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

tigergirl
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tigergirl  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Queensland Australia
Member since 11/30/09
Posts: 296
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Date: 9/28/13 3:16 AM

that sounds like what I get and the way I 'fix' it in a woven fabric is the method SimplyStitches described - tuck across the back that tapers to zero at the side seam.

------
Brother BM-2600
Janome 693
Lumina Overlocker (Serger)
http://tigergirladventures.blogspot.com/

jenniferisnice
jenniferisnice
Advanced Beginner
Georgia USA
Member since 1/10/13
Posts: 19
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In reply to simplystitches <<
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Date: 10/1/13 1:45 AM

Thanks for the advice. I tried a half-inch swayback adjustment and it worked out very well. I actually think I might need to take out an extra quarter inch, but I'm not at all displeased with the half-inch adjustment. It looks much better.

jenniferisnice
jenniferisnice
Advanced Beginner
Georgia USA
Member since 1/10/13
Posts: 19
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In reply to Red Dragon <<


Date: 10/1/13 1:47 AM

That's exactly what I needed! I made a half-inch swayback adjustment to the pattern piece, and it made a huge difference in the fit of my second dress. I actually think I could stand to remove another quarter inch from the swayback for a full three-quarter-inch adjustment, but it definitely looks much better with the adjustment. Thanks!

Red Dragon
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Red Dragon
Intermediate
Australia
Member since 2/4/08
Posts: 745
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In reply to jenniferisnice <<


Date: 10/1/13 4:35 AM

Awesome, glad it worked.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

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