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Brother VX1200
Need help figuring out the bottom spool...
bulletsnbait
bulletsnbait  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/30/13 9:32 PM

So I have the top thread threaded. I have the bottom spool threaded and put together, but what do I do with the 4" of thread it says to leave out. Where does it go so that the top thread can grab it?

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 9/30/13 11:47 PM

Through the top edge of the door.

Make sure the bobbin thread is feeding from the bobbin in a clockwise direction and through the tension guide on the side of the bobbin case.

Always thread the machine with the presser foot up.

If you do not have the manual, you can get one at www.sewusa.com.

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

bestgrammy
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bestgrammy
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In reply to bulletsnbait <<
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Date: 10/1/13 1:32 AM

Do you have a manual for this sewing machine? It's extremely important to only use SA156 Plastic bobbins in this model. Using the wrong size...or a metal bobbin...in this model could damage it...per brother.com. There is not a pdf manual at brother.com for this model...but you could email brother or even call it to ask about getting a manual.

I am looking for a couple of good videos about bobbin case threading and bringing up the bobbin thread...but until I can post those...wanted to be sure your sewing machine has its correct bobbins to use.

Edited to add:Theading a bobbin case and bringing up the bobbin thread
BE SURE SEWING MACHINE IS TURNED OFF WHEN INSERTING BOBBIN CASE INTO HOOK RACE FOR YOUR FINGERS' SAFETY.

In this video the instructor is using a metal bobbin...but the sewing machine is not the same as your sewing machine model.
-- Edited on 10/1/13 2:42 AM --

HappyGene
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In reply to bulletsnbait <<
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Date: 10/2/13 4:19 PM

Hey Mr. Bullet,

A thread tail is usually left hanging out to be picked up by the top thread and is called raising or pulling up the thread or the bobbin (even though you're just pulling up it's thread.) You can googggle that and find lots of examples.

WalllyMart has Singer 15J bobbins, 3 or 4 to a pack for about $1.50. These have the Janome/Brother curve like the old 66's and will work in ANY 15 class machine.

Note that you want 15J, not 15 - the J is important, it means the the top outer edges are either curved or beveled.

Also, the prewound class 15 bobbins at Hobbby Lobbbby are usually 15J style, in that they have a beveled or chamfered edge to suffice for the official curved design. You can look closely through the blister pack and see if there's a recessed lip around the edge. If so, you're good to go. Sometimes there'll be a bit of flash, but you can polish or nick that off. These are similar to the Singer 12 packs sold at smaller fabric stores for $1-2, labeled simply as 15.

Nice, official brand-name Janome new-style, Brother 156's and Singer J's will run at least 50 cents a piece and usually more like a dollar. They're pretty and smooth, but not necessary. I've got a few just because :)

If you like tools and have a tie winder (hehe), you can take plastic 15's and bevel them down to just under 1/32 in from about 3/16 in from the edge and make your own. Polish with crocus when you're done.

Also, I know that my 1120, 1717. 2020 and 2025 do not need the J bobbins, so your's proly doesn't either; but it won't hurt and you'll be all set if you get a newer machine. Almost all new top loaders use the J bobbin, though.

In a pinch, if your friends have an industrial straight stitcher, those L bobbins will work. You'll get a bit more bounce, so you might want to go just 2/3's or half speed, but there'll be no damage and it will stitch properly. In fact, I came across a gob hopper of L prewound bobbins and use them full speed in my Singer 7466 and Brother CS6000i, both of which are J bobbin machines.

HTH,
Gene

------
If you're not ahead, you're behind!

bulletsnbait
bulletsnbait  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/2/13 9:48 PM

First off, you all are awesome. Thank you so much. I haven't figured it out yet, but I really appreciate all the responses.

I have ordered a manual, so it should arrive any day now.

I think I got into trouble when I pulled the bottom bobbin holder apart to oil it as per the diagram. When I went to put it back together, that's when I got lost. The bobbin is the plastic bobbin it came with. The bobbin holder sits in a metal cylinder of sorts with all sorts of crazy edges, and it goes against a black horseshoe thingy, and it's all held together by a metal ring held in place by two plastic wings.

I can take a picture tonight. When I tried to put it back together, it's like the bottom thread got grabbed a bunch of times and sort of bound itself up. I'm going to double check and make sure I've got the bobbin spinning in the right direction when I go home. I'll let you guys know tomorrow. Thanks all!

bestgrammy
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In reply to bulletsnbait <<
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Date: 10/2/13 10:08 PM

Oh...didn't know you had trouble with getting the parts back together too...only in your op (original post) was asked about bringing the bobbin thread tail up.

When first learning be careful of what is instructed on youtube sewing tutorials since sometimes even the best ones have errors. The one linked is accurate...except it does not state to turn OFF the sewing machine before having your fingers in the hook area but be sure to turn off or even unplug your sewing machine anytime when not actually sewing.

The narrator does call the metal protrusion on the bobbin case the "horn"...and others may call that the "finger"...both names are correct...it's not incorrect information that would damage your sewing machine or project.
Click here: Hook, Hook Race and Retaining Ring

After having a thread jam...it's important to change the needle to a new one because a jam could bend the needle even ever so slightly to make it cause poor stitching...or even another jam.

Needles should be changed often even if not damaged from a jam...so find a good online place to buy needles for good prices or watch out for 40% off sales at JoAnn Fabrics. Don't pay high prices for needles...sewing uses up too many to pay $1 or more each for a normal kind of needle.

-- Edited on 10/3/13 2:56 AM --

PattiAnnJ
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In reply to bulletsnbait <<
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Date: 10/3/13 0:15 AM

Raise the needle to its highest position and then tip the machine back onto a folded towel to cushion it while you work with the bobbin area.

The silver ring is a race hook and should fit into the race as it should with the needle raised.

Then move the levers back into place so they keep the race hook in place. Now you can place the bobbin spool into place.

Pictures of the race hook and cleaning tips. May take several seconds to open.


-- Edited on 10/3/13 1:23 PM --

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

HappyGene
HappyGene  Friend of PR
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In reply to bulletsnbait <<


Date: 10/3/13 10:51 AM

Hey, you're welcome!

These ladies have clarified things very well. I'd add that the hook fits into the shuttle race kinda like a yin yang symbol and only stays in place because of the machined cavity that holds it. You've proly already found out that it like to fall away when you don't want it to ;)

** Ha, I was looking into a mirror to try to prep for making videos Do the exact opposite of this paragraph for the bobbin thread direction! Sorry...

For these oscillating hook class 15 machines, the bobbin thread should travel off to the top left (ccw as you look into the bobbin case) an be pulled through the tiny slot under the flat tension finger with right hand (cw) motions. Hold the bobbin with your thumb and seat the thread under and past the additional tiny down-finger and you're done.

Unless your hook is bent, the nesting and looping comes from improper tensions or needle insertion. Gooogle phrases like thread tension, balancing tension, bobbin tension, take up lever, balanced stitch, domestic 15x1 needle insertion, etc.; and you'll find a wealth of info.

We can walk you throught it here, too!

Once you're stitching, if there's still a click or thump while the needle is down in the fabric, I can walk you through re-surfacing the hook.

Gene

-- Edited on 10/4/13 1:54 AM --

------
If you're not ahead, you're behind!

bulletsnbait
bulletsnbait  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/5/13 4:55 PM

Woohoo! Bottom spool is doing what it's supposed to! YAY! You guys rock.

Now, I have to get a new needle. And then I have to make sure the top is doing it's job. I'm going to head to the store tomorrow, and I'll let you know what I figure out.

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bestgrammy
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bestgrammy
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In reply to bulletsnbait <<


Date: 10/5/13 5:53 PM

The kind of needles to buy depends on what fabric and project...and thread you are using.

Universal needles are not actually for "everything". If you are sewing thick denim then a denim or jeans needle would be needed. And those come in sizes from 14 to 18...so that is something to consider too.

If sewing a thin woven cotton...a size 11 sharp would be good...sometimes sharps are called regulars.

Best to read up on needles before buying any. Organ brand needles are the brand that is supplied with new Brother sewing machines. Schmetz needles are good...and more expensive. Third place is Dritz...generally. IMHO...Singer needles are better now than they were a few years ago.

Stay away from Simplicity needles. I have not seen any Simplicity needles in about 5 years where I shop...but they were the absolute worst I had ever seen. Yep...all the eyes of the needles in the entire pack were very poorly made...plain to see even without a magnifier. Maybe that was a bad pack...but in any case...they are not stocked around my area anymore...so must be a good reason.

While you are shopping tomorrow...look for a good but inexpensive large magnifier...it will be useful often. Actually Dollar Tree has one that will work...and it's only $1.

Click here for Organ needles at good prices:Redrock Threads
NAYY (Not affiliated with Yadda Yadda).

Click here for Needle Chart (from Schmetz): Household Needle Chart
NAYY (same thing)

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