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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Cup size poll

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Cup size poll
BriarRose
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BriarRose
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Date: 10/1/13 0:05 AM

I hope presenting an informal poll is allowed and that this the right place to post the same. The big four draft patterns to a B cup. Seems like a lot of us are making FBA. I'm curious to discover whether or not it would behoove pattern companies to start drafting patterns for a larger cup size.

Just for the sake of the poll assume that a C cup is one where the full bust is three inches larger than the ribcage with cup sizes going up and down in 1" increments. A DD, for example would be a difference of 5 inches, an A cup a difference of 1 ".

Thanks in advance for participating and if I am not supposed to make polls, moderators, please excuse me and delete.

I do a FBA to a DD.

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Speech girl
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Date: 10/1/13 0:44 AM

I have a C cup and if I sew Burda, HotPatterns, Ottobre Woman, Kwik Sew, and Onion patterns I do not need a FBA in them and choose my size by full bust. I do do a narrow shoulder alteration that slightly narrows the upper chest. If I sew from a big 4, I need to select my size by high bust so I do need to do an FBA. I think they just draft for more of an inverted triangle shape which is the opposite of me, so I think I would have problems even if they drafted for a C.

I have heard the average bust size is now a C, but it probably was a B at the time the big 4 standardized their fit.

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GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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Date: 10/1/13 3:44 AM

I believe the way it started is that B is right in the middle. Huh? The available sizes were AA, A, B, C, D. Anything larger had to be special ordered or obtained at a specialty shop.

I have no insider info but I'm guessing that pattern companies will not change until there is a major change by the body that governs the industry. (Sorry, I can't think of their name). There was a change in the 40s, then late 60s and none since. They have been talking about for at least 20 years.

Sizing in purchased clothes varies (as does some in bras). At least the patterns are the same. Thus, we know what changes to make. (hopefully).

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"TOL machines = Too (much) Operator Learning"--poorpigling, January, 2016

AnneM
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Date: 10/1/13 6:30 AM

I think many people who sew and need assistance with fitting will be larger-than-B size cup (and possibly larger-than-c). That might be why you hear about it so often. And if RTW doesn't fit properly, you are more likely to search out alternatives such as sewing your own.

As a side comment, for sewing purposes, it seems that 'cup size' is full vs high bust measurement. At least, I've read that multiple times and it fits with people's experience. They would certainly often be the same, but not always.

All that being said, I expect the average bra size has increased. People are often heavier, and some people have cosmetic surgery to increase their bust size if they are smaller. fewer small = larger average.

Signed, A-cup Anne (probably AA)

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avatrx

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Date: 10/1/13 6:50 AM

Interesting topic.

I've not come across many people who are less than a C cup as of late. Must be my generation. I'm somewhere between a C and a D. (38D or 40C). Depends on the mfg.

The post on the various patterns and how they seem to fit was helpful.

I'm over 50 and really don't need a D cup for anything. It's just a nuisance. Every time I see or hear about these young girls wanting bigger bustlines I cringe. They WILL live to regret that lol.

I like a certain style of bra, but don't like it when I lean over and my boobs fall out............
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In reply to Speech girl

Date: 10/1/13 6:52 AM

Quote:
I do do a narrow shoulder alteration that slightly narrows the upper chest.


What is the best way to do this? I have narrow shoulders and always find shoulders too wide on most patterns.

thanks!
KathySews
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In reply to avatrx
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Date: 10/1/13 7:57 AM

avatrx - THIS is the way I shorten shoulders. I usually have to reduce by nearly 1".
marymary86
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In reply to KathySews

Date: 10/1/13 8:57 AM

slightly off-topic but when you narrow your shoulders, do you do anything to the sleeve? If so, what?

And to the OP - I'm an E cup ...

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clothingengineer
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Date: 10/1/13 8:59 AM

Generally a 32B, though for some brands the band runs long and I would need a 30C. My underbust is 28", upper bust 32", and full bust 34.25". My shoulder-to-shoulder breadth is 13.5" and I have to do a 1/4"-1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment. I sew with a 38 in Burda, 12 in BVM, 42 in Marfy, 8 in Style Arc, and 6 in Sewaholic. . My only bust issue is that sometimes I have to pinch some extra fullness in the upper part of princess seams or take out some of the length of a wrap-over bodice.
clothingengineer
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In reply to marymary86
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Date: 10/1/13 9:02 AM

No, the narrow shoulder alteration she posted does not change the length of the armhole. It just moves the seam inward, closer to where you need it. That being said I have large arms and shoulder joints, and whatever I subtract for the narrow shoulder alteration I add to the front sleevecap. The overall width of the finished bodice is generally good but I just need it distributed differently.
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