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Bodice Boning?
kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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Date: 10/1/13 11:24 AM

I'm making this pattern for my daughters wedding. The pattern does not call for boning but is it something I should consider and why?

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Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 10/1/13 12:49 PM

I wouldn't think it's strictly necessary for a gown like this. Since it has shoulder straps, you won't need the boning to help keep the dress up. My wedding gown was similar (portrait neckline, sleeves, wide V-back) and had no boning. But underneath it I wore a Very Serious Longline Bra with underwires and lots of boning. If your DD doesn't intend to wear special (or, well, any) undergarments with it, then you'll probably want boning so the bodice can do some of the work of maintaining her shape.

That said, boning can help keep the dress's smooth lines through a long day of sitting, standing, dancing, etc. Even when wearing period gowns over corsetry, I'll often put in a couple strategic bones just to keep the dress smooth.

HTH!

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~Gem in the prairie

MaryDB
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Date: 10/1/13 2:28 PM

I agree with Stirwaters about the boning. If you want to maintain a smoother line, yes, put in a few pieces of light boning.

The weight of the dress will be supported by the shoulders. I would recommend putting in a waist stay, or a pseudo waist stay to make it a little more comfortable for your dd, and not drag down so much - that's a big dress. One of the posters here recommends sewing a grosgrain ribbon in the side seams and attaching in the back under the dress with bra hooks. I did this on my dd's wedding dress, and also on several other formal gowns for her, and this works great.

Edited to add: Actually not grosgrain, but petersham; you can get this in the drapery trim department at Joann or Hancock.
-- Edited on 10/1/13 2:30 PM --

kowgiirl.up
kowgiirl.up
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Date: 10/2/13 1:40 PM

I've been doing some homework on boning and have found lots of different types. Most of what I have found so far are covered and some that are steel and some that claim to be lightweight.
I did a quick search here and found an old thread where someone replied (I think Stirwatersblue) that they used cable ties (aka zip-ties) for the boning. Would I be able to use them for the boning in this dress or would they be too thick or to stiff?
-- Edited on 10/2/13 2:07 PM --

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

stirwatersblue
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Date: 10/2/13 8:43 PM

I would probably use something like featherweight or Rigiline. Steel is for Serious Corsetry (and it's heavy), and cable ties--which I use all the time--are a good choice for Elizabethan clothing, which has a very different silhouette than you're dealing with. They'd be overkill for a dress like this, I think. But all you really want your boning to do is help the dress keep its shape--a gently curving modern silhouette, not the extremes of the corsetry eras--and dressmaking boning is what you want for that.They're also really easy to work with. Featherweight boning comes in rolls, already in casings (you iron it--boning, casing, and all--to remove the curve), and IIRC, you can just sew through Rigilene.

Good luck! Boning is one of those things that seems intimidating, but is actually easy-peasy, hardly any technique involved at all!

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~Gem in the prairie

Catina
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Date: 10/3/13 7:37 AM

I definitely second the recommendation of the Rigiline. It is lightweight, strong, thin and very easy to sew. However, the cut edges can unravel and the rigid strands of plastic "poke out" and the ends and can HURT! In manufacturing, it is common to just cover the ends with cotton or a little fusing, but those "thorns" can still poke through! What I do with those ends is heat seer them so the ends fuse together and will never unravel. Then I cover those ends with fusing or bias cut cotton that I have ironed heat n' bond to.... kind of creating a cotton "fusing" if you will.

I always put the boning in the inner layer of the innerlining/lining closest to the body, and those layers fit a wee bit tighter than the dress outer layers. This way the outer layer always falls smoothly without being strained with puckers.

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Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

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kowgiirl.up
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 10/18/13 12:05 PM

Quote: stirwatersblue
Featherweight boning comes in rolls, already in casings (you iron it--boning, casing, and all--to remove the curve

When you say casing do you mean the fabric type covering that I see some on some different types?

Should I be looking for covered boning since I've never used it before? I would think since it's covered it would be more comfortable.

I am hoping to get into Joann's over the weekend and pick some up so I can try my hand at installing. I'm actually a little excited about trying this!

------
Runs with scissors
Universal Deluxe Zig Zag from the 60's
Singer Quantum Stylist 9960
Singer Treadle 127 Egyptian
Juki MO 735

stirwatersblue
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Date: 10/19/13 6:09 PM

The bones absolutely must be covered *somehow,* both to keep them in place, as well as to protect your skin from the boning (think the underwires in your bra). That can either be a casing (a tube of fabric into which you insert the boning, or that comes on the boning when you buy it), or with channels sewn into the layers of fabric. I have far more experience with the latter, because of the nature of the corsetry I've done. However, I have done a couple of projects where, when boning is inserted along seams, you actually fold back and tack down the seam allowances to act as the casings.

My guess for your project is that casings would make the most sense.

Here is a photo of boning channels sewn into a canvas corset.

Here's a good example of boning done with casings, on a dress bodice. This would be similar to the application you're doing. In this case, it appears that the seamstress used something like satin ribbon for the casings, which would work, altho' I'd prefer pre-made casing or bias tape. You would probably want to add an additional layer of lining to cover the casings.

This looks like an excellent tutorial from Sewaholic, "Sewing a Boned Bodice with Plastic Boning." She probably covers everything! The only thing I'd do differently is straightening the boning. She boils it, which to me seems needlessly complicated! I just iron mine. :)
-- Edited on 10/19/13 6:11 PM --

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~Gem in the prairie

HDWen
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Date: 10/19/13 7:07 PM

StirWater you make amazing garb and thank you for the links to helpful information on boning and casings!

Last set of bodices made (I use a combo covered boning for the Princess seams at breast line) and Home Depot electric ties which are really thick! haha

But the covered boning at Joann's is about the right weight for this lovely Wedding dress! A good pair of scissors helps "round" the tips after you peal some of the fabric away to cut your section - I've used nippers as well, and love to have a pair of new Toe Nail clippers to really round those edges, pull the boning fabric back over, and also set the ends in the Seam Allowance without being pokey...

Looked at this dress, how beautiful this is to create for her!

Saw you were going to J's this weekend and wondered how your adventure went?

Debbie

------
I have a great enthusium for sewing, but lack talent to be great.

2013

Elona
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In reply to kowgiirl.up <<
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Date: 10/20/13 2:10 AM

You probably don't need a foundation with this style, but there was a lovely article in an old Threads Magazine (#40 Apr/May 1992
“Draping a Gown on a Fitted Tulle Foundation,” Pg 44) showing one way to make a couturier boned tulle foundation on which the finished garment is draped.

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