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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Do many people follow the sequence in patterns? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Do many people follow the sequence in patterns?
Some of them make no sense at all!
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UNITED KINGDOM
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Date: 10/1/13 2:44 PM

Do many of you follow the construction sequence in patterns, when you've got the hang of making a garment?

I'm currently in a shirt-making phase. The last four patterns I've looked at/made, all have the button bands sewn on to the front first, then folded over and slip stitched to the back. Slip stitched.

There is no need for this. Here's what I do and will always do. Fold the button band in half lengthways and press flat. Now sew the button band to the back, first. Press seam towards button band and trim off a bit of seam allowance (to make room for buttonholes, later). Flip over to the front. Fold front seam allowance under, but not 5/8", make it a tad less. Press flat - you're on the front of the shirt now. Open up again and insert a single layer of fusible web tape. Close and iron shut.

Now the free edge is on the front, where everyone will see it, closed with fusible tape so it won't move under the machine. The edge is 1/8" away from the back seam, good. No one can see the under seam on the top of the shirt.

Edge stitch both sides. Perfect.
No Slip Stitching.
Ta Daa!

more follows, if anyone's interested............

Mrs. Cecil
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Mrs. Cecil
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Date: 10/1/13 3:33 PM

Pattern sequence does sometimes seem arbitrary and I (sheepishly) admit to treating instruction sheets as suggestions rather than hard and fast rules for construction, especially if I think there is a more logical method of doing it.

I probably would have done the same thing with the button band. I don't mind a small amount of hand stitching, but a button band seems excessive unless it's a delicate fabric. Finished edges are my pet peeve and I usually overcast all the edges that will be impossible to reach once they are inserted.


a7yrstitch
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Date: 10/1/13 4:10 PM

Don't generally pay attention to instructions other than to watch for inconsistent seam allowances. And since I choose what seam allowances to work with and do my own thing with ease I don't pay much attention to the pattern seam allowances either.

Mrs. Cecil, me too.

( shirtconstructionthread )
-- Edited on 10/2/13 2:52 PM --

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DonnaH
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DonnaH
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Date: 10/1/13 4:19 PM

I haven't done a sewn on band in a while (just a fold over (w/ interfacing on the back) to make a double layer for the buttons/holes), but I mostly remember doing them your way.

I don't do hand stitching if I can help it, but I also usually read/follow directions (I'm the designated "rule learner" for new games in my family. lol). So I think I would remember (and be annoyed) if they made me do that much hand stitching!

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Date: 10/1/13 5:00 PM

Quote: Mrs. Cecil
Pattern sequence does sometimes seem arbitrary and I (sheepishly) admit to treating instruction sheets as suggestions rather than hard and fast rules for construction, especially if I think there is a more logical method of doing it.



I probably would have done the same thing with the button band. I don't mind a small amount of hand stitching, but a button band seems excessive unless it's a delicate fabric. Finished edges are my pet peeve and I usually overcast all the edges that will be impossible to reach once they are inserted.






Hi Mrs Cecil

Unfinished edges bug me too, but I cannot think of any which would be impossible to reach after they are inserted, on a shirt.

Which ones do you mean?

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Date: 10/1/13 5:02 PM

Quote: a7yrstitch
Of course we're interested. And adding this search term to make it easier to continue to locate your helpful post.



shirtconstructionthread



[Enter 'word' above in the message search function. Cick on messages. Leave the name of the poster blank. Please avoid using the exact spelling above in general posts.]

....................


Hi a7yr,

I'm sorry, I guess I haven't been here long enough to understand those instructions.......

...adding this search term.....

???
tigergirl
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Date: 10/2/13 0:54 AM

Quote: Mrs. Cecil
Pattern sequence does sometimes seem arbitrary and I (sheepishly) admit to treating instruction sheets as suggestions rather than hard and fast rules for construction, especially if I think there is a more logical method of doing it.



That would be me too. When it comes to my sewing room and what goes on in there, I like to make the rules - not because I'm an expert, mind you, it's just that I can

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Date: 10/2/13 2:35 AM

Hello Handshake

Your technique tip is great. A way to post it in PR so that it will be available to anyone looking for such a tip is to put it in a Review.

Look at the long side bar to the left of the PR page...the third category down is Sewing Reviews...under that category ninth down is the sub-category Sewing Tips & Techniques. Click on that sub-category...on the next page click on Add a Tip/Technique. On the next page you will see what to fill in to make your tip review.

Not only writing your tip in the Reviews helps others find the info easier than Search...but it also helps you earn a Star.

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Date: 10/2/13 3:31 AM

personally I dont care for traipsing up and down my stairs half the evening to get to my iron, which I would end up doing if I followed the instructions. I've subsequently found out my method is actually similar to those in industry.

Prep all pattern pieces, then do any stay stitching, darts next, press, then basic seams as much as possible to create a complete front and back, press once more, then only side seams left to do.

I do any large pinning tasks in front of the tv (e.g. setting in sleeves) all in one go so I can return to my sewing machine and get the whole thing sewn up in one hit.

I check the instructions to ensure I dont miss out any important steps, but certainly dont follow the order.

annsew65
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Date: 10/2/13 6:19 AM

I generally complete the front and back, join them, set in the sleeves from notch to notch, THEN I try it on for a circumference fitting - then finish the side seams, finish the sleeve seams, finish setting the sleeve in and finish up the seam finishes next to the last. The last think I do is the shirttail hem. I even do the buttonholes and buttons while I'm constructing the front. That way, I can button the blouse up and get a very accurate fit across the bust, waist and hip.

All this assumes that I have already determined the shoulder width, etc.

As far as I'm concerned, I read the instructions, then determine where I'm going to change it. A lot of the time, it just doesn't make sense to do it the way they have it.

Another instance where I may follow the construction sheets as is is when I'm making a Louise Cutting pattern. She has absolutely the best instructions and her directions re: the order of construction always make good sense. This is one instance where a sewist has made the pattern - not someone who doesn't have a lot of experience in garment construction.

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