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New to this - Need Help - Shawl Collar
How do you pivot and sew a shawl collar
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/7/13 1:25 PM

I tried the Silhouette jacket pattern 1750 over the weekend because it 'looked' easy enough.

right from the start I had wondered about the 'clip' to stitiching line on the pattern tissue which was a tiny little line that really didn't go to any stitching line that I could see or even imagine. Since her s/a's are 3/8" - I did mark and clip as directed.

when it came time to sewing that part of the collar - I was completely lost. First she said to sew together the front 'assemblies'. Once I realized she was referring to the front sections that had been previously sewn together - I went on to attaching the 'front assembly to the neckline. Or rather - TRYING to do that.

Can someone explain to me or better yet - SHOW me on that pattern how to do it? There was no pivoting to it. Not without leaving a 'pleat' of sorts in that section.

I got so frustrated I tried deepening the 'clip'. That didn't work. The whole thing is ready for the rag bin now, but I'd still like to see or know how anyone put that section together. maybe someone has made it and could tell me? It did NOT work for me.

Here I thought a Shawl collar would be easier than a notched collar and now I'm not so sure.

I have another pattern which that same type of front, and while it shows stitching lines and a dot to stitch to (much better than the Silhouette pattern) I'm almost afraid to try it.

here is a link to the NewLook tissue directions and also the Silhouette tissue. Are there supposed to be 2 clips on the SP? to the stitching line? what stitching line?

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3fl3dhx0fntm3k1/jaovR7G6iO

PattyE
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Date: 10/7/13 3:50 PM

There should be an instruction early on that tells you to do reinforcement stitching through the dots and then clip to the dots. I always fuse a small piece of interfacing in those areas for extra support. Also, it helps if you do a very small stitch, like 1.6 or so.

------
Stash: 174.845 yds. @ 12.20.14

mastdenman
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Date: 10/7/13 3:59 PM

Here's a couple of tips for you to review:

Tip no. 1

Tip no. 2

Prior instructions:

First I mark my seam allowances on both pieces with chalk for something similar that can be easily removed.

Stay stitch around the corner and clip within a couple of threads of the corner.
Pin the corners together.
When you sew up to the corner, stop with the needle down.
Lift the presser foot.
Rotate the fabric around to the other direction.
This will involve making a pleat in the piece with the right turn on the inside. Put the excess fabric out of the way.
Put the presser foot down and continue sewing.

When you pull it apart and press, the fabric should be flat.

The reason I mark the seam allowances is because I have difficulty keeping track of exactly where the corners are and where I should be turning.
-- Edited on 10/7/13 4:04 PM --

------
Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

simplystitches
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Date: 10/7/13 4:25 PM

I've been fitting Maggie's blouse, another Silhouette pattern with the same type shawl collar.

I'm adding a bit to mastdenmen whose tips are spot on. In the Maggie blouse Peggy has you clip the entire back neckline before you stitch it together. I found it much easier to match the neckline if I only clipped to the dot at the corner. I clipped after it was sewn. There are also no directions to stay stitch the corner but you need to. You'll also swear that you are going to end up with a tuck in the seam where you have to pivot. Trust me, you don't! As long as everything matches up once it's pressed it will look great.

Debbie

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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Date: 10/7/13 5:39 PM

May I add this tip: don't have your needle all the way down; instead, just far enough in the fabric to hold it. This has helped me many times when pivoting.

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 10/7/13 8:34 PM

You clip it before. I found my Maggie's Blouse directions and maybe the picture is better. The reason why you clip it before is because you want to make a "square peg go in a round hole" and gets both pieces to lay flat. Once stitched, the "round hole" (the collar) stands up.

And yes, there is a clip mark on your pattern piece. If you were cutting out the Size 5, it's 3/8" below where the pivot point is for that size. You can see a very small dot there, attached to a vertical line. If you're cutting the size 8, the vertical line and dot go to just where the size 7 pivot point starts.

Photo of clipping is here Look at top of page, and Picture 3 shows how it will sit.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/7/13 8:42 PM

Quote:
mastdenman
First I mark my seam allowances on both pieces with chalk for something similar that can be easily removed.
.
I actually did mark my seam allowances, but where the clip was on the Silhouette pattern? I wasn't quite sure where that was supposed to be..
.
Quote:
Pin the corners together.
I'm not sure how to pin them together since they don't even come close to matching. at least not on the silhouette pattern.
Quote:
Rotate the fabric around to the other direction.
This will involve making a pleat in the piece with the right turn on the inside. Put the excess fabric out of the way.
Any chance there is a photo of that anywhere? because I can't visualize it?

to PattyE
Quote:
There should be an instruction early on that tells you to do reinforcement stitching through the dots and then clip to the dots. I always fuse a small piece of interfacing in those areas for extra support.
That would make sense, but there is nothing on the guide sheet about that. at least not on the Sagers pattern. Her pattern instructions are terrible.

RE: Tip 1
Quote:
My mom and I had just been shaking our heads over her doing the same thing with a robe pattern where she re-did this corner 3 times, and still wasn't happy with the extra crinkle caught in the corner.
My solution: I ripped out the seam where it was puckered--about 3/8" on either side of the corner. Though it was still unstitched I smoothed the right angle of fabric at this corner until it looked close to how I wanted it. I went in with a needle and thread, using tiny invisible stitches to fill in the gap I had unpicked. It took me about a minute and the seam looked perfect. Pressing the corner before hand stitching might have helped if my fabric was more difficult to finger press into place.
Do I have to look forward to every time I try to sew a shawl collar?
Quote:
This saved more ripping, cursing, and wear on the fabric.
Too late. unless I add some seam binding somewhere to redo that area, the rips and tears are too extensive.
avatrx

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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 10/7/13 8:52 PM

Quote: Miss Fairchild
You clip it before. I found my Maggie's Blouse directions and maybe the picture is better. The reason why you clip it before is because you want to make a "square peg go in a round hole" and gets both pieces to lay flat. Once stitched, the "round hole" (the collar) stands up.



And yes, there is a clip mark on your pattern piece. If you were cutting out the Size 5, it's 3/8" below where the pivot point is for that size. You can see a very small dot there, attached to a vertical line. If you're cutting the size 8, the vertical line and dot go to just where the size 7 pivot point starts.



Photo of clipping is here Look at top of page, and Picture 3 shows how it will sit.


It just doesn't look anything like that photo. I was very careful to mark it correctly. I know there is a clip mark. I was cutting out the 6w. I clipped to the dot, but when I tried to line things up, the shoulder seams - center back etc. it just didn't work. Even though I know I marked it right - I went back and looked at it again and again. Measured the pattern against the markings on the fabric. They are the same. This is a twill fabric, so stretching wasn't the issue. I wish I had anticipated this. I would have increased the s/a. working with that 3/8 is a real problem in an area like this..........IMHO

I must be missing something. I sure would like to know the process for when I make another shawl collar item. I think this pattern is too far gone to save at this point unless, as I said earlier, I add some seam binding or something to repair the damage that I incurred in trying to get this to work...........
Miss Fairchild
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 10/8/13 1:12 AM

A photo of the back neck showing where you clipped would be nice, just to give us an idea of exactly what you are talking about.

When I clip past I'm supposed to, I go ahead and stitch everything together anyway. This does mean that there will be "holes" where I clipped. Then I handsew those holes shut.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 10/8/13 4:33 AM

Quote:
A photo of the back neck showing where you clipped would be nice, just to give us an idea of exactly what you are talking about.
I'll try to get one taken and sent later today (Tuesday). I have to be out of town this morning. It's kind of a mess now after my temper tantrum but I'll do it anyway...

I did find a youtube video that I may try to use. It's short and seems to be what I'm looking for. PS doesn't believe in stay stitching so there was none of that on my pattern instructions that I could find and then I watched one of her webcasts where she said she though stay stitching was old technology and she didn't do it.

Here's a link to the youtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LB0kiAxt6Hk

does the video look like it's what I need? working with those 3/8" s/a's is not easy. maybe for a sleeve, but in tight places like this? not so much........
-- Edited on 10/8/13 4:35 AM --
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