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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > singer 600 chainstitch question ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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singer 600 chainstitch question
tabathavm
tabathavm
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Member since 10/3/13
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Date: 10/8/13 2:28 PM

Me again lol... ok so I got myself the chainstitch attachments and I have read thei instrucion booklet for that and I'm a little confused on the section where it says how to chain stitch a seam. It says to put the needle at Posistion C and width at 1 and length at 10 or 12 only. Ok when I use these settings the needle hits the faceplate. How are these instuction possible ?

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to tabathavm <<


Date: 10/8/13 2:51 PM

The instructions are right. The needle needs to be in the Center, the width needs to be at the smallest size as you aren't zigzagging, and length at 10 to 12. Also, take a look at your sole plate (you called it "face plate") and remove it. Turn it over and it should have a lever on the back. To do a chainstitch, you need three parts: The single hole soleplate with the lever on the back, a little disc with teeth on it with a hole in the middle and the size of a quarter, to cover the bobbin area; and a clip that clips onto the machine near your tension discs.

Sometimes on my 626, my needle might be far over to one side or another. And I have to push it to the center to get it right.

That being said, are you sure you have the right manual for your machine? You said it was a 600, which is an old model Touch and Sew. This one has a button that you push down to wind the bobbin (sewing reel) My 626 is a little different, but I believe the chainstitch feature on both is the same.


-- Edited on 10/8/13 2:53 PM --

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bestgrammy
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bestgrammy
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In reply to tabathavm <<


Date: 10/8/13 6:22 PM

Quote: tabathavm
...the needle hits the faceplate.

Since the needle hit the face plate (needle plate)...it needs to be disposed of safely and a new needle put in. It's very important to do that after you get the machine set up to not hit the face plate again.
-- Edited on 10/8/13 6:24 PM --
tabathavm
tabathavm
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GA USA
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Date: 10/8/13 6:28 PM

Your directions were much more understandable. I was moving the lever (the one with the BCDEF...) to C .which moves it to the right. so I moved it to the center and now it works perfectly. by the way I never actually ran the sewing machine I just turned it slowly By hand to see how it was going to go and then I noticed that it would be touching that place So I never ran it. thank so much .
Oh..how do I secure the stitch? Didn't understand that either.

bestgrammy
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In reply to tabathavm <<


Date: 10/9/13 4:25 AM

Are you reading the sewing machine manual? I am looking at page 13 of singerco.com online manual. Header is straight stitching but diagrams and text explain about reverse stitching to "reinforce a seam". HTH

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to tabathavm <<


Date: 10/9/13 7:41 AM

You were so smart to turn the hand wheel slowly! I didn't do this when I was starting out and had a cheap needle in my machine. It taught me two lessons--not only to turn the hand wheel slowly, but not to buy cheap needles as bits of it went flying everywhere.

When you release the chain from the machine, you should have two threads where the chain unraveled. Tie these threads together into a knot. I don't think you can reverse over them, at least I haven't done that, as the lever in the sole plate might not let you. Chainstitching is great for making muslins.

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tabathavm
tabathavm
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Date: 10/10/13 5:32 PM

Thank you so much. Now umm u say its grat for making muslins.

What are those?

misschris
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In reply to tabathavm <<


Date: 10/10/13 5:40 PM

A muslin is a test garment - often made from muslin, but any cheap fabric will do as long as it has similar properties to the good fabric you want to use. When you're making a muslin (also called a toile), you may need to take it apart to make alterations and then resew it. The chain stitch is easy to remove, so ideal for this situation.

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chris

Melbourne

tabathavm
tabathavm
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Date: 10/10/13 10:42 PM

Wow never heard that before. Thanks!

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