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how to mark a mark resistant fabric
avatrx

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Date: 10/17/13 5:35 PM

I'm making a muslin (again). I found some fabric for $2 yd and it almost feels like a wool blend.

The problem I'm having is marking it. it has quite a few areas that need to be marked to get the collar to work. My standard tracing paper barely shows. It's kind of a burnt orange fabric with a wool like feel to it.

I have a chalkoner and that seems to work, but I can't use that thru the pattern.

Not really sure how to get this thing marked. try my best with the tracing paper and then quickly go over those faint lines with the chalkoner?

frame
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Date: 10/17/13 5:50 PM

Tailor's tacks.

Someone did a really great youtube tutorial. I'll see if I can find it. Or maybe you have a book with instructions.


eta: Sorry I couldn't find the youtube video but there are pretty good instructions here: Tailor's Tacks - just scroll down a bit.

Oh this is pretty good here also: Tailors Tacks


Well, anyway, you get the idea. Just google tailor's tacks and some pretty good images come up. :)



-- Edited on 10/17/13 6:04 PM --

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avatrx

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Date: 10/17/13 7:45 PM

Thank you for the links. They look easy enough to follow. I remember being taught that in Home-Ec class a hundred years ago. I wonder if that will work for the areas I need? stay-stitching lines that you have to clip to in corners?

I'm a tracing wheel kinda person, but I may have to try this since tracing paper isn't what it used to be. It doesn't leave much of a mark.

dumb question: does it really matter which side is on the inside when cutting folded fabric? I"ve always put the wrong side inside and then laid tracing paper in between the layers and marked.

just curious.....

NancyZL
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Date: 10/17/13 8:44 PM

Yes, tailor tacks, easy enough to do. And sort of therapeutic too!
good luck w/ it!

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Date: 10/17/13 9:34 PM

Quote:
dumb question: does it really matter which side is on the inside when cutting folded fabric?


Not a dumb question. And no. It doesn't matter. People get into a mindset about it, but you can fold the right side to the inside or the right side to the outside. You can leave your fabric single layer face-up and cut everything out one at a time (ugh!). Well, you really should do that with plaids, etc. :winkgrin:

The key is to know which side is the right side (to you) and to make sure you have a left sleeve and a right sleeve, etc. I always fold right-side in because I just always have. I don't have to think about it. Sometimes fabric looks the same on both sides and you wouldn't want to get confused about which way you folded your fabric THIS time. But if your memory is better than mine, you might be able to mix it up. Ha!

I have occasionally folded my fabric right-side out and it always surprises me when I realize I've done it. I have also, purposefully, used both the right side and the "other right side" in a garment for design purposes.

If you don't think the tailor tacks are appropriate for your need, you can always hand-thread baste your stay-stitching lines. Is that what you are trying to mark?

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avatrx

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Date: 10/18/13 6:52 AM

Quote:
If you don't think the tailor tacks are appropriate for your need, you can always hand-thread baste your stay-stitching lines. Is that what you are trying to mark?
I have been trying to come up with a blazer pattern that works for me. They seem easy enough until I get to the collar part. Making sure they are marked in the perfect spot and then trying to sew them so they look right? That is the goal.

I've been very careful to mark the previous 'flops', but still can't get them right. I'm going to try again - but found that this fabric is almost like a wool. very short nap, but kinda fuzzy. It's really pretty nice for the $2yd I paid (clearance table). I experimented with using my old standby of tracing wheel and paper but could barely see the marks. I tried yellow and white on this dark orange but I fear I won't be able to see.

There is a corner in the collar that has stay stitching lines at 90 degree angles which come to a dot in the very corner. The guide sheet says to stay stitch to that dot and then clip to the dot. That seems to be a critical aspect of getting the collar to pivot (yeh- wish me luck on that one )

I'm going to try the tailor's tack in that little corner dot and then measure the stay stitch line and mark it with my chalkoner.

darts? I"m not too worried about those. I can mark the point, and clip the end of the dart legs at the outside like I clip any matching point.

I'm driving up to Wisconsin today. A lady at Franks's Sewing Center in Waukesha WI. is going to (hopefully) show me how to sew the collars. many thanks to her! There is no one around here so if the 1 hour drive finds me someone and I can get answers - it will be well worth the trip!

Tailor tacking has always seemed like so much added work, but if it works - and I can get them right - it should save me grief in the long haul.

thanks!
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Date: 10/18/13 6:58 AM

Are you using the small tracing sheets from the chain stores? That may be your problem. I buy the large sheets from Richard-the-Tailor (?) in Los Angeles. I have also bought on etsy but can't remember who sold them.

You can cut those big sheets in half for a more manageable size. But, the marking "ink" is very strong and you must use caution while working with them. Several colors.

They are more expensive but last a long time.

The small packs don't work well, IMHO.

HDWen
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Date: 10/18/13 7:18 AM

How did the trip work out? Good luck on getting your collar to work, that's one of the hardest part for me too!

Hope to hear some great news about her helping you with this - tips, advice


Debbie

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Date: 10/18/13 7:28 AM

I agree with frame. I would thread trace the seam lines, etc.
I just finished DD wedding gown. I think I made a million muslins
I did thread tracing when transferring the final seam lines, darts, etc. to the tulle and the satin, because I wanted to protect the fabric.
Also, I just recently went to a link about sewing collars. It was from a thread here on PatternReview, so I will try to find it and report back!
Maripat

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avatrx

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In reply to HDWen <<
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Date: 10/19/13 7:00 AM

Quote:
How did the trip work out?
The gal that helped me said that it was apparent I was doing it correctly. I just needed to ease it in more and expect that it won't be perfect. Once the collar is turned it won't show. SInce I had used a longer stitch (since I was pretty sure I'd be ripping it out) she said that probably contributed to my not being able to ease it in properly. She suggested that I use a TINY stitch in that corner so the fabric can be more easily manipulated.

She said I need to concentrate on the finished product and not worry about the little things along the way. They can be perfected over time once I get the idea. That was good advice.

I think the most enlightening part was that she said one of their teachers instructs at the local community college and they have classes there. She is also the 'teacher' at the 'sew-in' the first Friday of every month that goes from 9 -3. $7 cost. just bring ANYTHING as well as your machine and get help.

My plan is to participate in that hopefully next month.

I'm going to go ahead and sew up the jacket I'm working on. I'm going to experiment and hand stitch that corner. the precise corner - with nothing else stitched, and see how much easier it will be to 'turn' / pivot' that area. Once I try that - I'll have a better idea of what I'm doing. Then I can sew it.

I do feel I'm learning stuff with the help of all of you and the lady at the sewing store.

I'm sure my quest will continue. AS much as I get discouraged - I have dogged determination to learn this stuff.....
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