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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Pants fitting (again) ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pants fitting (again)
flat/low bum with deep body, I think....
LornaJay
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LornaJay
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 9/30/06
Posts: 576
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Date: 10/18/13 8:44 AM

Hello peeps.

I am having fits trying to alter this trouser / pants pattern to fit me. You can see my croquis here:
Croquis at 81kg

I've ended up pinning out a sort-of vertical fisheye dart from just below high hip to mid thigh, and that has solved the huge extra flaps of fabric on the back out seam. I can 'feel' the crotch curve, and it got worse when I did a flat butt adjustment, so I've undone that, and am considering scooping out the crotch to give a bit more length/depth under the bum cheeks.

Firstly - can I just do that? Pin out a wedge at the side seam? The pattern looks really odd, but then so do I!

Secondly, do you have any other suggestions?

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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IA USA
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/18/13 11:12 AM

Please post a picture of you in the pants. I am having a difficult time visualizing this internal fisheye dart.

------
Ada

Linda T in TN
Linda T in TN
Member since 9/27/13
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In reply to LornaJay <<
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Date: 10/18/13 11:22 AM

I have a couple of suggestions. First, try your pants on backwards. Sometimes when you have a flat butt and a tummy, the pants actually fit better that way because the tummy needs more room (like someone with a well-developed butt) and most patterns assume that one's tummy is basically flat (sort of like people with flat butts).

Second, because you don't need all the extra fabric in the back that this particular pattern has allowed, you can try cutting the back piece one or two sizes smaller. Check the flat pattern measurements first to be sure you will have enough ease in the hips (lower and high hip areas) and the waist. You may need to add a little to the waist area on the smaller size, but that's easy to do. If the smaller back pattern piece makes the back crotch length too short, you can scoop it out to allow more length.

I'm sure others will have different ideas, but I've tried both of these with some success.

Linda in Tennessee

LornaJay
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LornaJay
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In reply to Linda T in TN <<


Date: 10/18/13 1:44 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. This pattern has been drafted for someone with a waist 6cm bigger than the pattern standard, so it already includes extra for the tummy (a bonus for me).

I have cut the back one size smaller already, Linda T, so great minds and all that. I just seem to have way too much fabric over the side hip even after doing that.

I'm going to make up another version as I threw the last one away after it had been sliced-and-diced to a fare-thee-well so I'll get back to you.

LornaJay
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LornaJay
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Date: 10/18/13 3:36 PM




Frustration!

Linda T in TN
Linda T in TN
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In reply to LornaJay <<


Date: 10/18/13 3:44 PM

Do you have a larger high hip measurement (probably four inches below your waist) than the regular hip measurement (usually eight or nine inches below your waist)? And are your upper thighs on the smaller side? If most of the extra fabric in the lower hip area, you may be two sizes smaller than your high hip. If so, you can cut your pattern by the lower hip measurement and then very gently curve outward to allow for your high hip measurement and waist.
You may be able to cut both the front and back from the smaller size. That's what I'm doing now since I've lost some weight.

My difference is actually over three inches, and until I started doing this, I was having the same baggy back problem you are having.

My side seams actually look like they have sort of a gentle bump at the high hip area--just like me!

Good luck.

Linda in Tennessee

Linda T in TN
Linda T in TN
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In reply to LornaJay <<
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Date: 10/18/13 3:57 PM

You were posting your pictures at the same time I posted my last message. Your high hips look just like mine and your legs and upper thighs do exactly the same thing as mine except you are smaller.

The front looks great. The back makes me want to rip open the back crotch seam all the way to the crotch and pull up the back while pinning out the excess at the same time. When you do this you will be straightening the angle of the back crotch. When that seam is pinned and everything looks okay, you will probably have a wedgie. That's when you will scoop out 1/4 inch at a time just at the bottom part of the curve. Keep trying your pants on until they feel right both when you stand and sit. You need to stop scooping right before the crotch seam heads north.

Is there a chance you can retrieve these to keep working on them just for educational purposes?

Linda in Tennessee

simplystitches
simplystitches
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In reply to LornaJay <<


Date: 10/18/13 4:26 PM

Those diagonal folds in the back indicate that your ss are too short. Lower the elastic and pull down the ss (keeping cb and cf at the same spot) until the wrinkles disappear.

To help make this clear looking at the back picture you can see that you have slightly less pulled up in the elastic on your right side. Notice that the diagonal wrinkles are slightly less pronounced than those on the left side.

Debbie

LornaJay
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LornaJay
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Date: 10/18/13 4:42 PM

Okay. So, I need to add to the side seems tapering to nothing at the CB and CF. At crotch level or above?

I also need to make the CB seam more vertical. I did try a flat butt adjustment, but couldn't seem to get something comfortable.

simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 10/18/13 6:14 PM

Above the crotch at about mid hip. If you can pull the ss down and get a ballpark figure of how much you've pulled down it will tell you how much. Otherwise I'd try 1' to start. That will let you know if you need to add more or less. The one thing that's important is to try to be consistent with the level the muslins are sitting at the waist.

There's a different way to do it that's easier. Add 3' to the top of the pants. Put an elastic around your natural waist. Bend side to side so that it settles. Pull the pants down all around until everything is comfy and there are no wrinkles. Mark the top of the elastic. From there it's just a matter of deciding where you want the waistband to sit and adjusting the top of the pant.

Don't do anything to the crotch or cb seam until you get the ss length figured. That adjustment shifts the pant on the body and you may find they're more comfortable as they are.

Debbie

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