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Flat fell seams
Is there any way to turn a corner?
Aquaisces

Aquaisces
Member since 3/20/06
Posts: 17
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 10/20/13 6:10 PM

I'm making a kimono-style robe with flat-fell seams. The sleeve requires me to make a 90-degree turn. Normally I'd just pivot the stitch line, but is there any way I can flat-fell this seam? Do I need to finish one seam before starting the next? I'm reluctant to just cut into the seam allowance if that's just going to leave me with a cut-up seam allowance, kwim?

Thanks for your help!

beauturbo
beauturbo
California USA
Member since 5/2/09
Posts: 4418
Skill: Advanced
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In reply to Aquaisces <<


Date: 10/20/13 6:56 PM

I think I could meter and turn a real flat fell seam allowance at a 90 if using no machine attachments to do that and just myself (as in me and my fingers and the point of a needle or seam ripper) and at a 90 degree angle if with careful finger folding, clipping, metering and tucking the fabric in there into the meter and hand tacking it down first, but not sure why I would ever want to anyplace either! So, no I have never seen it done that way on anything actually, even in the stores.

But if I had a seam like that, that probably would be enough for me to choose another seam finish for it instead, I would think. Maybe choose something else there. You could do a fake one with seams pressed to one side, and just top stitched instead maybe, it would be way less bulky at the 90 degree turn like that. Or just seam pressed to one side, allowance turned under once, clip and fold and manipulate it at the corner, all with your hands carefully and hand baste it down, press good and then top stitch?

ccris
ccris
Member since 10/27/05
Posts: 5580
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In reply to Aquaisces <<


Date: 10/20/13 7:32 PM

Here's a way to finish a kimono sleeve. It isn't flat felled, but it might be helpful. Scroll down about half way. Finishing a kimono seam

SandiMacD
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SandiMacD
USA
Member since 2/8/09
Posts: 2563
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 10/21/13 5:04 AM

Is the sleeve separate? My kimonos (from Japan) all have an attached sleeves that have flat felled seams.
It looks like the kimono was flat felled up the side from the hem area to the armsyce.
On some, the sleeve attaches with a flat fell seam that stops about 2 inches either side of where the armsyce joins the side seam. Its an open vent of about 4 inches under the armpit area.
On others it looks like they flat felled from the hem to the armscye. Then they sewed in the sleeve but only started the flat felling about an inch from the side seam intersection.
The actual intersection is raw and unfinished about 1 inch in all of the 3 seam directions under the arm.

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sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

SandiMacD
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SandiMacD
USA
Member since 2/8/09
Posts: 2563
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 10/21/13 5:09 AM

I have a hand made kimono as well but it is lined so I can't see the join. From what I can feel the fashion and lining both appear to be flat felled with the join just being a normal raw seam edge. The lining is sewn in at the hem so I can't really confirm this.

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sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

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