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Drafting and draping - books?
sleeves and collars
LDT2011
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LDT2011
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 11/18/11
Posts: 763
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Date: 10/23/13 5:22 AM

I'm looking for recommendation for a book that will show me how to create and modify sleeves & collars and also how to drape bodices (I've had a go using trial and error but I'd like to just have something to confirm I right*). I just find the maths part of drafting frustrating and prefer draping on my paper dress form.

My draped chemisette. Also done a bodice for my regency dress...but having trouble with the armscye.Draping regency spencer and bodice

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'The purpose of most fashion is to be ostentatiously non-functional.'

CatherineUK
CatherineUK  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 5/28/13
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Date: 10/23/13 6:47 AM

I have just this week bought 'Draping: the complete course' by Karolyn Kiisel (which also has a DVD I haven't looked at yet). I was lured into buying it by the excellent picture quality. The last item in the book is an 8 page demonstration of draping a classic Vivienne Westwood evening gown with a drapy bodice fitted onto a basic underbodice, but there is also a simpler draped bias-front camisole earlier in the book.

I'm fiddling about with a 1980s pattern at the moment which has a draped cowl neckline cut on the bias but also sleeves, and the bias front makes the sleeves drop of my small shoulders (I don't want to solve this with monster 1980s shoulder pads). I'm thinking about setting the bias front onto something cut straight. I've bought Vogue 1351 which is a current Donna Karan pattern with a sleeveless bias front where the front is attached to a front lining cut on the straight. Looking at your pictures I don't think yours is bias, but the idea of fixing the drape to something fitted underneath is the same.

Kemish
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Kemish  Friend of PR
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 4/24/06
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Date: 10/23/13 11:48 AM

I don't have any recommendations regarding draping books, but two pattern drafting books I would recommend are:

1) Pattern Making for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong (ISBN 0-321-03423-6) and,

2) Make Your Own Patterns by Rene Bergh (ISBN 1-84537-456-8).

The first book, Pattern Making for Fashion Design is a text book used in design schools/colleges. That's where I got, I was taking pattern making at our local community college. This is not a how-to book, but a text book in that it provides the necessary steps to draft a bishop sleeve or a high waisted pant or a double breasted jacket (to name a few). It has good diagrams and it seems (at least to me) to include almost every variation of garments that are possible for the RTW industry. This book is written for the pattern drafting student/professional.

The second book, is more of a how-to book for the home sewist. It explains all the necessary measurements a sewist needs to draft a good pattern. It has diagrams of each variation of the garment, plus a picture of what the garment should look like. It is sectioned by garment type: dresses, trousers, blouses for example and under each section there are several variations of the particular garment and the steps to follow to draft to pattern.

Which one is better? That I can't really say. Both books are good but each book is written for a different audience (reader) in mind.

Both these books are available on Amazon here in the US as for the UK, I'm sorry. I don't know.

There are other drafting books in fact I have a few more on my book shelf, but these are the two (particularly the first one) I refer to again and again.

Hope this helps.

------
Kemish

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Washington USA
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Date: 10/24/13 10:52 AM

Check out the books by Connie Amaden Crawford. I think they are the best.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
Intermediate
Kansas USA
Member since 12/13/08
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Date: 10/24/13 4:17 PM

Do you have Sharon Sobel's Draping Period Costumes?

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~Gem in the prairie

LDT2011
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LDT2011
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 11/18/11
Posts: 763
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 1/31/14 10:37 AM

Quote: stirwatersblue
Do you have Sharon Sobel's Draping Period Costumes?

Yes. I have it now. Managed to drape a waistcoat. Then adapt it so it was like a sleeveless spencer. (well it didn't tell you how to do sleeves)

Also just had Draping: The Complete Course arrive in the post. Has anyone made the 'georgian corset' from it before?
-- Edited on 1/31/14 10:37 AM --

------
'The purpose of most fashion is to be ostentatiously non-functional.'

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