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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Kenneth King Moulage fitting help ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Kenneth King Moulage fitting help
Need critique & suggestions for improving moulage muslin
piakdy
piakdy  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/24/13 3:01 PM

Hi,

I need help fitting my Kenneth King bodice moulage. I'm working off the CD book & trying to fit myself. Sadly I'm not in the States, so can't get help from the master himself. Nor do I have a fitting buddy. So I'm hoping those of you familiar with moulage making - or generally are expert with fitting, can help me figure out what need to be fixed and suggest how.

I actually made two muslins. The first one I panicked when my front pattern step 10 came out looking really funny. I ended up moving width to the front bust from the back bust (instead of using the formula given). I think I'm one of those weird B-cup that needs a FBA. My Other Half isn't exactly precise with measurements, but a difference of 5" between front bust & back bust measurements seem too great to be just inaccuracy. The first muslin seemed fairly good, but there were still some wrinkles.

Anyway, I decided to start again & try to stick to the instruction more closely. But as the front pattern looked too narrow after step 13, I tried mixing in the instruction given for D-cup+. Here are the fitting photos for muslin 2:

]

]

I have more photos on Flickr:



I'm not good at reading muslin wrinkles, and have a tendency to over-fit, though this one is meant to be zero ease. Based on the photos above, what looks off to you? Do I need to...

  1. do a little bit of sway back adjustment

  2. scoop out back armscye a bit more

  3. lower right shoulder & armscye a little bit

  4. shorten the CF a little - is the looseness under the bust normal?

  5. make front lower armscye curve more shallow - is it normal to have such a gap there or should it be closer to the arm crease?



Thanks in advance for your feedback & help! :D
Pia
Carol Mendoza
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Carol Mendoza  Friend of PR
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LA USA
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Date: 10/24/13 4:32 PM

I'm not anywhere near a fitting expert...if I could get anything to fit me anywhere near what your fit is....I would be jumping for joy! I think it fits you to a T. I will be interested to see what others think. Great job!

------
Bernina 730E; 440QE; Vintage 121; Babylock Evolution

heathergwo
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Date: 10/24/13 8:13 PM

I am no fitting expert either... BUT your fit looks EXCELLENT!!! I can't see anything that needs to be changed. Yes there are a few little wrinkles in the middle, but to me that's just because of the fabric that you're using and are normal, not a sign of ill-fit.

Good luck!!!

------
Brother Innovis 1250D
Babylock Enlighten
Singer Curvy 8763
Brother 1034D
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Deepika
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Date: 10/25/13 0:28 AM

I think it looks great. You know sometimes we overfit. I know this because I've done it myself. Moulage is no easy task. Pat yourself on the back because I think you've nailed it!

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- Deepika
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madrejesica
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Date: 10/25/13 10:15 AM

If you were using a stretch fabric like jersey or Lycra, it would probably be a go. It looks like it might need a 1/4 inch ease between the bottom of the bra to the top line of waist. Can you get someone to pin out the tiny bit of fabric for the back to see if that pleases you?

------
Every country has a fabric shop!

Kenneth D. King
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Date: 10/25/13 12:17 PM

I'd go with the one on the left. Good job!

How to smooth out the ripples in the back:

Pin horizontal at the center back to get the amount (which should be about 3/4"-1"). Then, in the pattern, fold this amount parallel all across the back. You'll remove it.

Then, add that amount at the hem, so your side seams front and back will go back to the same length. You'll correct the back, so it's smooth. The front looks great.

Good job!

Tina Lou
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Date: 10/25/13 12:24 PM

I've been working on fitting all summer, but this is just going to be another non-expert opinion.... If you're going to attach sleeves to this garment, then I think that the less-scooped front armhole shape of your first muslin might result in a better looking garment. It more closely follows along the arm/torso intersection to my eye. Other than that, I think you've nailed the fit - so jealous!!

------
Tina

Nancy K
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In reply to piakdy <<


Date: 10/25/13 5:21 PM

post removed by author
-- Edited on 10/25/13 5:23 PM --

------
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piakdy
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Date: 10/27/13 4:05 PM

Thanks everyone for your help, and especially Mr King! Wow.

Just need to find time to try out the suggested changes. It's a bit more time consuming to fit by oneself as you can imagine!

And thanks for all the compliments too. I think credits need to be given where it's due. So thanks to Mr King for sharing his moulage technique, and thanks to my DOH for doing his best to take relatively accurate measurements.

If you're making a moulage too it would be great if you can share your fitting photos as well. I find photos so much more useful for learning how something should fit than illustrations. Would love to see how a properly fitted moulage look on all shapes and sizes!

piakdy
piakdy  Friend of PR
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In reply to Tina Lou <<
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Date: 10/27/13 4:24 PM

Yes Tina, those armholes look a bit weird don't they.

Having said that, Kathleen Fasanella of Fashion Incubator says in her book that front armhole actually should be scooped out more than in the average patterns to permit forward arm movement, that "most bunching above the bust is because there's too much fabric in the armhole".

I do find some of my previous tops where the armhole goes right up to my arm to be a bit restrictive when I hold my arms forward. But on the other hand, I also find that with my arms at my sides, standard pattern armholes feel a bit restrictive in the back as well (fabric bunch up against the back of my arms near the armpit). I must have really weird arms! Need to do more experiments on this.
-- Edited on 10/27/13 4:27 PM --

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