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Forum > Fitting Woes > Too much fabric above the bust ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Too much fabric above the bust
Is there a reason this wouldn't work?
plumfan
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plumfan  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/26/13 3:59 PM

I'm working on Simplicity 1733. I've made 2 muslins and I am now happy with the length of the bodice since the seam line now hits comfortably under my bust.

Now I need to deal with the fabric at the armscye. When I look at it, it looks like I could just pinch out a dart about 2 inches or so above where the arm starts to curve. I think I could pinch a dart out of the pattern and just go from there, but it would change the size of the armscye so I don't think I want to do that.

So I'm thinking that the alternative might be to move the seam line from 5/8" to 1" with a few tweaks in key spots. It seemed to work when I put a sleeve in the muslin. So I think this is the answer but I'm new to fitting myself and wondered if there would be unseen problems later?

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sings2high
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Date: 10/26/13 4:10 PM

you'll never know til you try. It's fabric, it's forgiving.
Experiment, learn, have fun.

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KathySews
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Date: 10/26/13 4:52 PM

baste it in first to see if it works as you expect then go for it

beauturbo
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Date: 10/26/13 7:17 PM

I have that pattern, was going to make up the over sweater, but have not done it yet. I think you are probably making the top or dress though instead.

Good thing is that it's just a stretchy knit pattern, so I don't think it matters that much, if you want to put a dart in there, you can. Or even just make a dart folded into the pattern tissue and cut real fabric with no dart in it, but the same shape. Also even if you did anything that changed the circumference of that armcye, even just smaller or larger by up to an inch or so, I don't think it would make much of any over all final difference shown worn on a persons body (good or bad) when laying the sleeve into there after wards anyways, just since that sleeve is stretchy too and could be stretched out or eased in by at least an inch, and probably not even show or make any difference at all. So I think it would actually be very forgiving there, since your fabric would just be knit and stretchy anyways, and probably would not even effect your ability to move your arms or your extent of arm reach at all.

LauraTS
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Date: 10/26/13 9:10 PM

I end up with an unsewn dart in the armscye all the time. I think the 'proper' way to get rid of it is to make the dart, then rotate it into a real dart or out at the shoulder by lowering the shoulder slope. But especially if you're making up the knit, I would do whatever works to make it hang right on your body.

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Date: 10/26/13 9:26 PM

I'm not sure if this is the answer but I'm really short waisted but large busted. I cut out a smaller size in the neck and shoulders than I do in the rest of the pattern. If I don't then I have a ton of extra fabric in the arms and shoulders.

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chgh
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Date: 10/26/13 11:22 PM

I suspect you might have chosen a size that is too large for you. I have a large bust and if I choose a size too large I end up with excess fabric in that area. I don't choose my pattern size after the cup-size. I pick a smaller size instead and make an FBA = Full bust alteration. This also makes the armscye shorter and rounder which makes movement more comfortable. I usually use the high bust measurement as if it were my bust width and use the corresponding pattern size. This makes the back width fit better too.

Love this pattern I have made both this one and the coresponding one from Burda

/ CG
-- Edited on 10/26/13 11:40 PM --



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Date: 10/27/13 6:34 PM

If you wear a C cup or above you need to do a FBA or full bust alteration to all your patterns. Patterns are made for B cups only unless they specify diffferently. I also agree with using your high bust measurement for the pattern.

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In reply to chgh <<


Date: 10/27/13 8:58 PM

I did choose my size based on my high bust. I made a couple muslins. The first was just the pattern without alterations. It fit decently, but the seam didn't fall below the bust the way I wanted. I really needed more length, not really more shaping so I made a somewhat unorthodox fba by simply adding two inches of length doing my best to stay out of the way of the folded area.

Both muslins had the same problem at the arm. I realize that I forgot to do my usual sloped shoulder adjustment. I wonder if that would help a bit?

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Stash in as of Feb. 1, 2014 - 43
2014 Items finished for me - 12
2014 Items for others - 9
Approximate yardage used - 40

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