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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Invisible zip flares at bottom, how to shorten? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Invisible zip flares at bottom, how to shorten?
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karen n
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karen n
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Date: 10/27/13 9:06 AM

I put a side zip in some flowy wool crepe pants. The fabric is a light/medium and slightly spongy with give.

I used an invisible zip as a side closure. Here's the problem: The bottom of the zipper tape pokes outward instead of flowing nicely and inwardly with the hip curve out/then in. I tried steaming/pressing it over a ham to shape it but it is still warps out.

I usually avoid side zippers, favoring back zippers, and in retrospect, maybe this has been an ongoing problem for me. But actually, I've seen center zippers flare at the bottom too (i.e. neckline down). So there has to be some technique I'm missing.

I'm not sure if it was the fabric choice (wool blend crepe) but I did not stabilize it first.

I'm not sure if this had anything to do with it but I also shortened it:
JoAnn's shortest invisible zip is 7-9 inches. I cut it off at the bottom and sewed over the teeth to create a stop (the procedure I learned to shorten regular zips). Maybe it's because the zipper ends at the wrong part of the hip curve? Though I'm straight up down (waist 29/hip 32). Where should a side zip end so it flows with the hip? This is maybe a second question. Is this how one shortens an invisible zip?

Thank you!

EleanorSews
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EleanorSews  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/27/13 10:49 AM

Have you altered the hip curve so that it follows that of your body? If the pattern curves out and your body doesn't, that might be a part of the problem.

As far as shortening the zipper, no need to have any more zipper than the length you actually need. Sounds as if you shortened it properly so that should be OK.

I couldn't find a tutorial with an example, but there are some where after the invisible zipper is installed, suggest that you stitch the bottom half inch to inch of the zipper tape to its respective seam allowance. In theory that might hold the zipper in.

HTH

http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-installing-an-invisible-zipper

and

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

Maripat
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Date: 10/27/13 12:39 PM

Sometimes I see this when I alter a bridesmaid dress that wasn't bought in the correct size. In my case, the hip area is too snug and it causes the bottom of the zipper to "poke" out. The dress has stress lines horizontally (maybe even a horizontal wrinkle, if it's really tight). This may not be your problem, but I thought I'd put out there for you.
Also, I have a "Replace Invisible Zipper" tutorial on my website. I put the zipper in differently that the Colletterie instructions. I find it easier to buy the zipper at least 2" longer than needed and after installation, shorten it from the top. This gives the zipper pull a place to hang out while you are sewing the zipper…you don't have to sew around that bump. It is
Here.
Don't be put off by the number of steps. I wanted to make it detailed enough to make it clear.

I'd love to hear how it all works out. Good luck!
Maripat

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LearningAlterations.com

beauturbo
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Date: 10/27/13 4:44 PM

Your fabric choice might just show anything under there, or it could have got stretched out, when you sewed the zipper in, but if you think it's the very end of the zipper tape, the part that is not sewn into the seam and kind of hanging out loose there, if you just take a hand needle and some thread and hand catch stitch or slip stitch the whole length and end of it down and directly onto your seam allowance there, at least it will be sewn down and attached to the garment and tend to move with the garment and not be lifted up or poking out in any other direction. If you can see the stiff plastic part of the end of the cut off zipper through the fabric drape, maybe you could also just slip stitch a little rectangle of self fabric, or lining over that, stiff cut off part of the zipper to make it show less from the outside.
-- Edited on 10/27/13 4:45 PM --



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Date: 10/27/13 6:23 PM

I do as Maripat does, use a longer zip and cut it when I am done. I also sew the end of the zip to the seam allowances. I think that will help you a lot. Did you interface your seam allowances? They should be interfaced.

lca
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In reply to Maripat <<
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Date: 10/28/13 4:18 PM

Thank you for the great tutorial!

karen n
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karen n
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Date: 10/29/13 2:52 AM

Thank you for the suggestions. In response to postings so far, I didn't interface or stabilize the seam allowance before putting the zip in so that could be a problem. I'll have to try that tutorial! I will try hand basting the bottom to the SA and see if that helps tame it. It's so wonderful to throw a question out and get some strategies. I'm thinking the fabric got stretched somehow and that might be the cause.

Maripat
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Date: 10/30/13 6:18 AM

You're welcome, Ica!

bunnypn, Can you say more about interfacing the seam allowance? Do you do it for all of your garments? When do you apply? It's a new concept for me.
Maripat

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"You are in charge of your own ride!"

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Date: 10/30/13 8:57 PM

Yes. for nearly every zipper I put in. I use a tricot or weft insertion fusible interfacing It's cut an inch wide and an inch longer than the zip. I interface both seam allowances before installing the zip. It makes a big difference.

AnneM
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Date: 10/30/13 9:57 PM

I have found that sometimes if the zipper tape is too short, it sticks out. At least, I think that is the problem with my flannel kick-around-the-house loose fitting pants that I recently made.

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With a great wardrobe that's still in the flat-fabric stage.

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